This tasty Jordanian dessert is made with a white cheese base that is soaked in sweet syrup and rose water and topped with crushed pistachio. Photo courtesy of avlxyz. 

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Cantaloupe Gastro Pub

“You might like our ‘Lychee Mac.’ It’s made with whiskey, fresh lime juice, ginger ale and real lychee.”

I’m currently sitting at a swanky rooftop lounge in Amman, Jordan, ordering cocktails and listening to Maroon 5 blast from the speakers. How is it possible that only hours ago I was driving by camels, roaming an ancient Greco-Roman city and wearing an abaya to cover my hair and skin in a sacred mosque?

There are many stereotypes that exist about the Middle East, and in only a few short days Jordan has managed to unravel all of them. Originally a Christian province, Jordan was the birthplace of both Christianity and Islamic faith. Moreover, its central location at the crossroads connecting east and west trading routes meant people from all over would travel through her’s diverse climates and terrains. Today, Jordan is a place where people from different tribes, religions, cultures and countries live in harmony, with people having the right to make their own choices about how they live their life.

Stacked buildings of Amman’s Old City, which was built on the hilltops of the capital

Jordan’s capital of Amman provides the perfect place for getting oriented with the contrasting personalities of this mysterious country, as it doesn’t get more paradoxical than here. While east Amman is where you’ll find the old city and its history museums, Early Bronze Age-era Citadel and 2nd Century AD Roman theater, west Amman is full of big-name hotel chains, boutiques, malls, posh nightclubs and trendy restaurants like the one I’m dining at now, enjoying a whole-cooked Sea Bream accompanied by Cantaloupe’s signature Chili Garlic sauce and a lychee-infused libation. Within an hour of the capital, it’s also possible to explore historical attractions like the ruins of the ancient Greco-Roman city of Gerasa in Jerash, the 6th century Byzantine mosaic map of the area’s holy places at Saint George Church in Madaba, and the ancient town of As-Salt, once an important trading link between east and west.

Drive 45 minutes to the west coast of the country to the Dead Sea and you’ll see a new side of Jordan, one revolving around health and wellness. Littered around the area are myriad hammans and spas offering Dead Sea-inspired treatments. To really reap the benefits of the curative waters, however, all one must do is go for a float. There isn’t really swimming in the Dead Sea, as the extremely salty waters (the saline content is 10x higher than in the sea) prevent the body from sinking. That being said, it’s the high salt and mineral content of the water that gives it the ability to treat skin ailments, arthritis, hypertension, respiratory issues and other diseases and health issues.

Curative hot springs at Evason Ma’in

The Dead Sea isn’t the only spa retreat one can find in the country. Wanting to escape the crowds and giant resorts but still wanting to relax, I head about 20 minutes east to Ma’in, an area full of curative hot springs. Evason Ma’in Hot Springs Resort and Six Senses Spa provides a destination spa resort, with a number of private and public hot spring pools, naturally hot waterfalls, organic gardens, inspiring olive trees, balcony views and a menu featuring both Jordanian and international dishes made fresh with homegrown ingredients. Despite the fact I’m in a country that’s more than 80% desert, Ma’in shows me Jordan can provide a tropical paradise and nourishing zen lifestyle.

Like many women, Jordan doesn’t like to wear one outfit for too long. While she’s shown me she can provide relaxing getaways and historical sides with confidence, it’s now time for me to see a side of her that is timeless and untouched. For a look at authentic Bedouin culture, I travel to Feynan, one of the few places you’ll still find true desert-dwelling Bedouins.

Hiking through Dana Biosphere Reserve in Jordan

Hospitality is a big part of Bedouin culture, which I learn during a 9-mile (14-kilometer) hike through the Dana Biosphere Reserve — Jordan’s largest nature reserve — from the Rumanna Camp to Feynan Ecolodge. Because of its changing elevations, Dana showcases a diverse range of ecosystems, terrain and landscape. While at one moment you can be standing on a jagged cliff ledge taking in colorful rock formation and pointy spires, 10 minutes later you may be wandering through swamp grass or beach sand. The most interesting part of the trek, however, is undoubtedly interacting with the Bedouin community.

As I approach Feynan, black Bedouin tents made of goat hair come into view with families brewing coffee and baking bread, while children search for water. Despite the fact these people have very little, one Bedouin man sees my companions and I looking tired and thirsty and invites us to come sit in the shade.

“Would you like some goat’s milk?” the man asks, my guide Ibrahim translating.

For a moment I am taken back to just a few days ago, sitting on the roof of a posh gastro pub and being asked if I would like a handcrafted cocktail. That world seems oceans apart from where I am now, but in reality is less than a three-hour drive.

Bedouin man who offered me goat’s milk in Feynan

The Bedouin man calls to his wife to bring some goat’s milk to the group. We sit Indian-style on cushions in the yard under the shade of a tent, passing around a giant bowl of thick white liquid. While it tastes a bit sour for my liking, I appreciate the experience and can’t help but feel awed at this family’s hospitality.

“In Bedouin culture we value relationships, not money,” he explains. “If a stranger visits they can stay as long as they like, and we cannot ask them their name of why they are there until three days later.”

Like the nature reserve itself — through which I did not see one other tourist besides for my hiking companions — the area seems pure and unpretentious. While visitors can enjoy guided hikes and visits to Bedouin tents through the Feynan Ecolodge, there is no sign of mass tourism, despite the fact Petra is only about an hour away by 4×4.

Although Petra is Jordan’s most popular tourist attraction, it somehow retains an untouched feel. Sure, there are people everywhere and Bedouins pressing you to take donkey rides and purchase souvenirs; but like a beautiful woman nothing can take away her magnificence. The impressiveness of Petra easily stands out against the stalls and horse-and-carriage rides. It almost feels like the Nabateans who built the ancient city will come out of the canyon-carved caves to greet us with pottery and exotic spices.

Attempting to Climb up to a Bedouin cave for tea in Petra

While I know this won’t happen, I am invited by a few cave-dwelling Bedouins to climb up the rock walls for tea. Even after giving it my best attempt, however, I realize I am neither nimble nor brave enough to scale an almost sheer cliff wall, and am forced to slide clumsily back down to the ground. Still, it gives me a sense of what the Nabateans may have gone through (a very small sense, since I only made it up about three feet) more than 2,000 years ago.

Along with the over 800 individual, ornately-carved monuments in Petra, I am surprised to discover Petra is a hiker’s paradise. Numerous trails litter the grounds, offering not just aerial views of the iconic Treasury and Monastery, but also slot canyons, shade-shifting sandstone, mountain peaks and red-rock monoliths. I opt to climb up to the “Best Viewpoint” (so says the sign) across from the Monastery, and after a tough uphill climb am greeted with about 10 different options for views.

Doing yoga in at the “Best Viewpoint” in Petra

My favorite is undoubtedly the cave — which was, oddly enough, completely empty despite the many tourists up at the lookout. Here I am able to get some inspiring silhouette shots with Petra in the background (Note: Once you make it to the top the cave will be directly to your right).

After saying goodbye to Petra, I’m off to get acquainted with Jordan’s more adventurous side. While there are adrenaline-pumping hikes and climbs all over the country, the lunar landscape of Wadi Rum undoubtedly provides the best variety of thrilling activities. Visitors to Wadi Rum — Jordan’s largest wadi (valley) at 280 square miles (720 square kilometers) — can skydive, paraglide, go hot air ballooning, ride camels, enjoy 4×4 safaris, rock climb, hike, base jump, mountain bike, camp and more. I choose a mix of activities and add in some traditional Bedouin camping for a cultural twist.

Dancing in a circle at the Captain’s Desert Camp in Wadi Rum

Captain’s Desert Camp takes sleeping under the stars to a whole new level, giving guests the opportunity to stay in authentic Bedouin tents weaved from goat hair. Activities include smoking shisha, taking part in traditional song and dance, desert star gazing and enjoying traditional Bedouin barbecue, called zarb, that is cooked in an underground “oven.” While my meeting with the Feynan Bedouins had been calm and subdued, the Bedouins in Wadi Rum seem to have poured some Red Bull into their hookah pipes, as guests are instructed to form a circle around these men as they get low and bust a move. The experience reminds me that just because a group of people takes part in traditions doesn’t mean they don’t know how to let loose. It also reinforces the idea that in Jordan you can’t judge a book by its cover (and in the case of Jordan, one cover is not enough to portray her many personalities).

Riding a camel in Wadi Rum

Through Captain’s Desert Camp I am also able to enjoy the adventurous offerings of Wadi Rum. I begin with a 4×4 safari, which allows me to capture beautiful photos of the different parts of the desert as well as climb some precarious looking rocks. From there I take on an activity I’ve never encountered before on my travels, camel riding. To make your camel go faster, shout “yella yella!” to your guide, who will then try to make them gallop. That being said, if you’re going downhill be prepared to hold on tight, as these animals have a tendency to instinctually run. Not a light trot, but a full on Olympic sprint that may turn your land adventure into an aerial one if you’re not careful.

After a short 40-minute drive I find myself out of the desert, bikini-clad and boarding a snorkeling cruise from the beach resort town of Aqaba. As the boat drifts through the ironically turquoise waters of the Red Sea, camels, red sandstone rocks and goat hair tents seem far away. Once again, Jordan is showing me a different side of her delightfully schizophrenic personality.

Toasting on Jordan’s Red Sea

Throwing on a pair of oversized shades, I sprawl out on one of the lounge cushions. In the shop-lined village I had purchased a 6-pack of Amstel, and I crack one open to propose a toast. Jordan, not only have you completely shattered any preconceived notions I had about the Middle East, but you’ve shown me the beauty of a well-rounded experience. I will be forever thankful to have met you, although I’m sure out paths will cross again soon.

Essential Information

For travelers to Jordan wanting to have a similar experience, here is some essential information and recommendations:

Getting In

The national airline of Jordan is Royal Jordanian, although there are over 20 international carriers that fly into the Queen Alia International Airport in Amman. Upon arrival, all nationalities are required to purchase a tourist visa for 20 Jordanian Dinars (about $30).

Getting Around

While public buses can take you cheaply along major routes, for example, between Wadi Rum and Aqaba, the country is small enough that using taxis to get around — even for long distances — is a convenient and affordable option. Moreover, to be able to take your time and enjoy the many scenic drives Jordan has to offer, renting a car can be worthwhile.

Local Guide Services

Ibrahim El-Wahsh was my guide throughout the two weeks I traveled around Jordan, and I highly, highly, highly (did I mention highly?) recommend him. Not only his he fun-loving, comical and knowledgeable, he’s well-connected allowing for any travel issues to be quickly sorted out. His contact information is Wahashi@yahoo.com and +962 7 95915879.

Excursions & Experiences

Adventure Jordan (Guided hikes)
Diva Aqaba (Diving in Aqaba)
Zumot Winery & Vineyards (Amman)
Petra Kitchen (Cooking class in Petra)

Recommended Accommodations

Marriott Amman (Amman)
Evason Ma’in Hot Springs Resort and Six Senses Spa (Ma’in/Dead Sea)
Movenpick Dead Sea (Dead Sea)
Rummana Camp (Dana Biosphere Reserve)
Feynan Ecolodge (Feynan/Dana Biosphere Reserve)
Captain’s Desert Camp (Wadi Rum)
Marriott Petra (Petra)

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Raiatea Lodge Hotel Restaurant

“Raiatea is the sacred island,” explains Karine, the director of Raiatea Lodge Hotel. “It’s a very authentic island with a rich history and culture that is very different from the other French Polynesian islands.”

We’re enjoying an artisanal breakfast at the lodge. Fresh sweet grapefruit, papaya and passionate fruit, house made vanilla yogurt (the island is home to numerous vanilla plantations), fresh baguettes, croissants and coconut bread, a spread of meat and cheese, fresh squeezed passion fruit juice and hot beverages. The experience is enhanced with homemade banana, papaya and coconut jams.

Karine smiles as sounds of epicurious delight escape my mouth. ”The spirit of our hotel is to offer something fresh to guests, from the breakfast to the fresh juice upon arrival to fresh caught fish from our lagoon for dinner.”

Tiare Apetahi via 100zax.

The hotel’s artisanal approach reflects the culture of the island, which is lush with fruits and flowers. In fact, Raiatea is the only place in the world where you can find Tiare Apetahi, a flower that grows only on Mount Temehani. Visitors to the island can hire a guide to trek to the top to see the flower, as well as take in aerial views of the island.

While other islands like Tahiti and Moorea offer big bus tours and other excursions synonymous with tourism, Raiatea remains largely untouched. That’s not to say there aren’t tours, but there isn’t an ambiance of mass tourism. Additionally, for many experiences visitors will need to have a sense of adventure. For example, there is only one main road to get around the island. If you want to explore the center — filled with lush nature and ancient archeological sites — you’ll need to hike or take a boat/kayak down the Faaroa River, French Polynesia’s only navigable river. The interior is worth the trip, as it offers a majestic setting with lush jungle, wild hibiscus, purau trees, steep cliffs and a history that includes brave Maohi families, the ancestors of French Polynesians, canoeing west on a mission to settle New Zealand.

Marae Taputapuatea. Image via Sur la route.

One truly unique feature of the island is it’s touted as the first settled island in French Polynesia, a facet that can be explored by visiting Marae Taputapuatea. Already established by 1000 AD with significant expansion after this time, it was the first royal marae in French Polynesia. Marae were the only places ancient Polynesians believed priests could go to call gods to Earth to give men the necessary strength for health and fertility. Marae Taputapuatea was a sanctuary of great importance, and priests and navigators would come from all over French Polynesia to give offerings to the gods, hold initiation ceremonies and international gatherings, and discuss the origins of the universe. This particular temple was dedicated to Oro, the god of war who demanded human sacrifices, and because it was thought that there was no greater gift to give a god than human flesh, this was a place where many were carried out. Today a visit to the open-air temple will bring you to a beautiful and peaceful place where seven marae sit constructed from stone and coral.

Stonefish. Image via Amada44.

Across from the hotel visitors can also explore Raiatea’s lagoon, which the island shares with nearby Tahaa. Filled with a large array of corals of all different colors and sizes, it makes a great spot for kayaking and snorkeling as tropical fish like Spotted Boxfish, Stonefish and Sabre Squirrelfish call the unworldly underwater formations home.

For many travelers, Raiatea provides a budget-friendly way to explore not only the island but also nearby Tahaa, which can be reached in less than 30 minutes by boat. Known as the “Vanilla Island,” Tahaa is a giant fragrant garden where visitors can visit vanilla plantations and pearl farms, taste tropical fruits during a 4×4 safari and go underwater to view eels, gray sharks, napoleon wrasses, barracuda and enchanting coral gardens.

The accommodation on Raiatea is also something that makes the island unique.

“What makes Raiatea Lodge Hotel so special is it’s 3-star rating,” explains Karine. “In French Polynesia there are less than five. You have many pensions and luxury resorts, but we are an independent hotel that provides a clean and comfortable accommodation that has something truly different to offer.”

It’s true. Having visited other islands and experiencing both the backpacker-esque pensions and over-the-top resorts, this does provide something in between, having the cultural touches of the pensions yet the comfort, cleanliness and service of the resorts. Plus they offer a range of ways to experience the culture of the island, for example, through free usage of kayaks, snorkels and bikes, in room and poolside Polynesian massages, a lodge featuring locally-sourced building materials, floral arrangements and decor, and their food and beverage program that incorporates locally- sourced ingredients.

Kayaking to Motu Miri Miri from Raiatea Lodge Hotel

After breakfast I decide to digest by the pool in the gardens for a bit before kayaking to the nearby Motu Miri Miri. From the shores of Raiatea the motu looks like an undiscovered paradise, a small uninhibited island with nothing but palm trees, white sand and colorful birds. The first thing I notice when getting into the water is how clear it is, and I can see an array of different coral varieties — staghorn corals, brain coral, lettuce coral, mustard hill coral, clubbed finger coral, sea anemones and more — as well as tropical fish swimming through them. Even without snorkel gear I can make out the colors of the marine flora and fauna. As I paddle out, the water gets deeper and although the bottom is no longer visible, the still water turns a deep turquoise that is majestic and calming.

It only takes about 15 minutes until I reach the motu. Looking back at my starting point, I’m able to really appreciate the mountainous and fertile landscape of Raiatea from afar. Moreover, I can enjoy a true moment to myself as I explore an uninhibited island with nothing but palm trees and wildlife — and some of the most enormous hermit crab holes I’ve ever seen. While the journey wasn’t particularly challenging, I feel the sense of accomplishment that comes with trying something new and exploring lesser-traversed territory.

Once back at the hotel, I celebrate my accomplishment with a cocktail. The Raiatea Hotel Lodge takes pride in their cocktails as they take classic drinks like the Pina Colada and Mai Tai and add fresh squeezed juices and Raiatae flowers for a local twist. They also have specialty cocktails, and I opt for their signature “Raiatea Lodge.” The libation features white rum, orange and pineapple juices, carambola fruit liqueur and grenadine. Each sip not only takes me deeper into French Polynesian paradise, but also local culture. And that’s why I travel.

Raiatea Lodge Hotel guest room

Logistics

The Hotel

Raiatea Lodge Hotel is located on Raiatea in the Society Islands of French Polynesia. Room rates are about $180 USD per night for a single room, $220 per night for a double room and $263 USD per night for a triple room. To add half board to your stay (breakfast and dinner included) the price is about $72 USD per room per day. A two night minimum stay is required.

BP 680 – 98 735 Uturoa

Raiatea – French Polynesia

Tél : (+689) 66 20 00

Fax : (+689) 66 20 02

E-mail : raiateahotel@mail.pf

Things To Do

Along with the above mentioned activities, visitors to Raiatea can enjoy windsurfing, deep sea fishing, scuba diving, horseback riding, visiting pearl farms and climbing Tapioi Hill, to name a few.

Featured image via KeySeeker

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Managing your money on the road can be tricky, especially when you’re in a vacation mindset that pushes you to spend freely without thinking. While this may be fun while you’re traveling, you won’t be smiling when you come home and realize you’ve blown more than you could afford. On your next trip, become a wise spender using these tips.

Make Use Of Coupons And Deals

There are so many resources that exist nowadays to help people save money on experiences. Apps like Groupon and Living Social can help you save money on hotels, travel packages, restaurants and experiences in the place you’re going. Restaurant.com is also a good site for getting big discounts at great dining venues. Moreover, the check-in app Foursquare often gives you free drinks and discounts at places you check in to. Doing a basic Google search for discounts and coupons as well as checking flash sale sites can also bring up some worthwhile findings that can help you save and manage spending while traveling.

Create A Separate Bank Account For Travel Funds

Creating separate bank accounts for travel funds, bills and personal enjoyment can help you better manage your money while traveling. By doing this, you’ll be less likely to overspend when money that is technically off-limits isn’t combined with your set travel money. Moreover, this makes your budget more clear so you can plan accordingly.

Create A Budget Before You Go

Before leaving for your destination, sit down and create a set budget. Set aside money for upcoming bills and monetary commitments and then think about how much you can realistically spend on your trip. Having a small budget doesn’t mean you can’t travel. It just may mean you’ll need to pick a destination where your dollar travels farther like Thailand, China, Ghana, Peru or Ecuador. Moreover, if you follow the tip about creating a separate travel fund you’ll be able to easily compare bank accounts to get an idea of how much you have in each and if you should shift some money around.

Keep A Spending Journal

It can be easy to lose track of your spending when you’re just grabbing a quick coffee here and a little ice cream there. Especially when you need to convert money in your head, you may not realize just how much these small purchases are adding up. Keep track of what you’re spending by keeping a written journal of everything you purchase, including receipts to help keep your records more accurate. Moreover, if you’re traveling with someone ask them to hold you accountable for your spending and to make sure you record everything accurately.

Join A Rewards Program

There are all kinds of rewards programs that can help travelers spend less when traveling. Most hotel chains have a rewards program that is free to sign up for and can help you earn points for free hotel stays and perks. If there’s an airline you fly with often think about signing up for their credit card or at least their rewards program. Additionally, signing up for a great travel credit card can help you earn points on everyday purchases as well as include travel perks like no foreign transaction fees, limited trip insurance and double miles per $1.

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Maklouba (aka “Upside Down”) is a typical Jordanian dish consisting of chicken, eggplant, potatoes and rice spiced with ingredients like sumac, cumin, tumeric and cinnamon depending on the recipe

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Santana’s

It’s 12:30 on a Saturday afternoon, but the white sand beaches in Williams Town on Little Exuma are empty. Everyone is at Santanna’s, a delicious open-air seafood bar on the water. While Chef Dee serves up delicious fried shrimp and grouper, the real draw is the cracked lobster.

Upon first walking into the wooden bar you’ll notice vibrant Caribbean-style music playing while happy locals dance and sing. From the ceiling above the bar license plates and colorful hats dangle down, enhancing the quirky atmosphere of the venue. Best of all, Santanna’s sits right on the beach, so you can watch the waves lapping up onto the white sand while you eat.

A smiling man brings me at ice cold Kalik beer, and plops a white Styrofoam to-go container in front of me. For those who think a great meal must be presented in an aesthetically-pleasing manner, don’t judge a book by its cover, especially when ordering Santana’s cracked lobster.

Santana’s Cracked Lobster

Unlike your usual broiled lobster, this fresh catch is fried while still in the shell with oily pieces of batter dripping into the bed of creamy lentils and rice that it’s served on. The lobster is surprisingly sweet, due to Chef Dee’s “secret sauce” (sorry, I tried to get it out of her but she wouldn’t budge). She did tell me, though, that all ingredients are local and many are sourced from her personal garden.

Although the rice tastes stir fried I’m told it’s boiled, with most of is flavors coming from the sweet native onion, onion leaf, natural salt from the local salt pond and pepper. It also has a delightfully sweet and savory contrast that is further enhanced with sides of corn kernels and coleslaw.

Fresh-made Rum cake at Mom’s Bakery

It doesn’t hurt this family-owned restaurant also has an onsite “Mom’s Bakery,” run by none other than Dee’s mom. While they only serve a few items — marble cake, vanilla rum cake, chocolate rum cake and a crepe-like pasty called “coconut filling” — everything is made fresh. I got to experience this firsthand by ordering a decadent slice of chocolate rum cake. The dessert is pulled fresh out of the oven before the woman working heated up some local rum and generously poured it on top. I’m not sure if it was the alcohol or the fact I was eating a warm and satisfying local treat, but I was love drunk upon first bite.

Despite the fact the fact Santana’s looks like a fun-loving dive, its anything-goes nature has allowed it to create a culture where Dee can be experiential with her cooking and serve it to locals who consider her establishment their second home. It’s an attraction in itself. In fact, Santana’s cracked lobster may not only be the best meal in the Bahamas, but the entire Caribbean.

Delicious Santana’s

Hot rum being poured over freshly baked rum cake

Chef Dee’s delicious lobster before being “cracked”

Salt from the local pond, which Chef Dee uses in her cooking

Beach in front of Santana’s

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Exterior view of Le Meurice

Skip the museums and spend the night at one of these art-centric hotels that go beyond pretty paintings on the walls. Whether you’re an artist looking to make it big or a collector wanting to expand your collection, these luxury hotels have introduced new interactive art initiatives for every kind of art aficionado.

For the Artist

Le Meurice in Paris, France

Le Meurice is gearing up for its 6th Annual Le Meurice Prize for Contemporary Art, bringing up-and-coming artists to the world’s stage. Art has always been a focus at the hotel, which opened in 1835 in the heart of Paris and quickly became a magnet for artists and celebrities – most notably surrealist painter Salvador Dali, who checked in for at least one month each year throughout the 1960’s, 1970’s and 1980’s. Le Meurice founded the Annual Prize for Contemporary Art in 2008 to honor the next generation of great French artists. Now in its 6th year of the non- profit competition, the Prize for Contemporary Art is seeking to elevate the next generation of French artists to compete on the international stage. The winner will receive a generous endowment of €20,000 ($26,226 USD). This international prize is open to all disciplines in the visual and plastic arts and the winner is announced just one week prior to the start of the Fiac International Contemporary Art Fair, which runs October 18-21 in Paris. The exhibition of the eight finalists will also be open to the public at Le Meurice starting December 2, 2013. Rates start at €640 (approximately $836 USD).

CUT at 45 Park Lane Damien Hirst artwork 

45 Park Lane in London, United Kingdom

45 Park Lane offers “A Brush with Art” guest experience, a curated peek into London’s art scene that caters to each guest’s personal interests. The experience includes individual exhibition tours led by 45 Park Lane artists themselves (Brad Faine, Martin Fuller, and Brendan Neiland, among others) plus exclusive perks such as private lessons with notable artists, face time with the current artist in residence during cocktail hour and access to additional works in the hotel’s permanent collection with a tour led by 45 Park Lane’s resident art curator, Roy Ackerman CBE. At Wolfgang Puck’s CUT at 45 Park Lane, guests can enjoy all 16 of Damien Hirst’s limited edition ‘Diamond Dust Psalms’ series hanging together for the first time. Every October, 45 Park Lane secures tickets and organizes transfers for guests to highly regarded art fair October Frieze held in London’s Regents Park. Priced from £762 inclusive of VAT, the ‘A Brush with Frieze’ package includes accommodation for two people with breakfast, two tickets to Frieze, complimentary transfer and a copy of the 45 Park Lane Art Book, bookable online at www.45parklane.com.

La Posada

For the Art Collector

La Posada de Santa Fe Resort & Spa in Santa Fe, New Mexico

A local and guest favorite situated in the heart of historic Santa Fe, New Mexico, La Posada de Santa Fe Resort & Spa, encompasses “The Gallery Collection.” The collection consists of over 600 original pieces exhibited throughout the hotel’s public spaces and “Gallery Suites” and is all available for sale at the artist’s studio price. Part of the extensive La Posada art program, the “Gallery Suites” are appointed with original works from some of Santa Fe’s most prestigious galleries. La Posada’s extensive collection of paintings is hand-selected and overseen by the resort’s onsite Art Curator Sara Eyestone. She rotates artwork frequently allowing the property to feature new pieces every couple of weeks. This summer, Sara will be hosting personalized art and history tours every Friday where she will share her passion for the town’s heritage and art culture. She will also teach weekly memoir-writing classes at La Posada and painting classes at the nearby Georgia O’Keeffe Museum. La Posada de Santa Fe has created the “Collectors Rate” program for guests who purchase art from the hotel, inviting them to return at half of the nightly rate, resort fees waived. Starting rates from $189.

Villas of Grand Cypress

Villas of Grand Cypress in Orlando, Florida

This February, the Villas of Grand Cypress in Orlando, Florida, completed a renovation of its 146 Villas. Investing more than $100,000 into each guestroom, the resort aimed to incorporate signature artwork and commissioned artist Bob Stedman to create 27 original art pieces inspired by the property’s iconic landscape. The pieces, which range from $44 – $230, are displayed throughout the resort and are available exclusively to guests for purchase.

Painting at the Royal Orleans

The Omni Royal Orleans in New Orleans, Louisiana 

The Omni Royal Orleans is one of the most historic hotels in the French Quarter. Because of its history, the hotel ensured that its recent $15 million renovation paid respect to the city’s culture. The hotel partnered with celebrated local artist James Michalopoulos to showcase an original piece of work in the hotel’s lobby. Michalopoulos, who is known for his paintings of distinctive New Orleans’s architecture, created the oil painting entitled “Going Green” which is now on display in the hotel. Admirers of the work have the chance to take home the painting with the Michalopoulos “Going Green” package. The one lucky guest to book the package will enjoy two nights in the hotel’s Royal Suite, overnight parking, and ownership of Michalopoulos’ “Going Green” oil painting, which will be shipped directly to their home. Package starts at $35,000 for two nights.

Dolder Grand at Night

For The Art Admirer

Dolder Grand in Zurich, Switzerland

With 124 pieces of stunning art work set around the property, the Dolder Grand in Zurich has launched a new iPad application for guests to create their own walking tours of the resort’s remarkable art collection, featuring pieces from the famed Andy Warhol and Salvatore Dalí. Guests can borrow an iPad from the reception desk and use a specially designed app to guide themselves through the hotel’s collection of work from 90 artists, which has been documented and sorted by location. Guests are able to access more information about the artists and access a map showing the positions of the works of art throughout the hotel. For the art-centric guest looking to explore the Zurich art scene beyond the hotel, the Zurich Festival held around the Theaterhaus Gessnerallee in June and July offers musical theater, opera, plays, concerts, exhibitions, debates and more. Rates start at $626 USD (CHF 590.00).

The Renaissance Blackstone

The Renaissance Blackstone Chicago, Chicago, Illinois 

Art, history and the city that surrounds it are central to the experience at The Renaissance Blackstone Chicago. The hotel is helping travelers enjoy a cultural weekend this season with a Picasso package including two tickets to Art Institute Chicago’s special Picasso exhibit. The world-renowned museum was the first major U.S. art museum to showcase the artist a century ago and this will be the first Picasso-focused exhibit at the museum in nearly three decades. The Blackstone Renaissance Hotel has an art collection of their own with artwork by numerous Chicago-based artists including cutting-edge new media art, contemporary photography, painting, and graphic works. Historically, The Blackstone
Hotel exhibited local artists in its ornate fifth floor Art Hall and upon completion of the hotel’s $128 million renovation in 2008, the property revived the tradition of rotating art exhibitions by showing artworks by local artists. Available now through May 12, rates for the Picasso Package start at $199 per night, double occupancy and include: Two tickets to the Art Institute of Chicago’s Picasso Exhibit, Breakfast for two at Mercat a la Planxa and complimentary valet parking. For reservations or more information call 312-447-0955; or visit www.blackstonerenaissance.com (Please use booking code: P52).

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I didn’t, but looking around I am not at all surprised.

We’re at Yerette, a hummingbird sanctuary of sorts in the lush Maracas Valley. The attraction is also the home of Theo and Gloria Ferguson, two Trinidad locals who wanted to share their unique location with the world. Theo is explaining the space to us, where visitors can view 13 of the 17 hummingbird species recorded in Trinidad and Tobago, some of which include Copper-rumped Hummingbird, White-cheated Emerald, Blue-chinned Sapphire, Ruby Topaz and Tufted Coquette.

One would think the operation was methodically planned and implemented; however, this paradise of hundreds to thousands of graceful hummingbirds was a beautiful accident. With a passion for photography, Theo set up some feeders of sugar water to attract the birds for him to capture on film. This combined with his lush garden full of nectar — which makes up 90% of the hummingbird diet — led to an abundance of hummingbirds and even butterflies coming to their yard. One day, while photographing the beautiful birds in the peaceful garden, surrounded by enormous silk cotton trees, cloud-capped mountains and El Tucuche, the second-highest peak in the country, Theo had an epiphany. This was something special they had to share with the world.

Hummingbirds at Yerette

The word “Yerette” means hummingbird  in the original Amerindian language. It is believed these mysterious birds, with their vibrant colors, flittering wings and aerial acrobatics, contain the souls of the local’s ancestors. You’ll even see the hummingbird on the national Coat of Arms, currency and passport, as the bird is an important symbol of the country.

At Yerette there is no question whether you’ll get to see them up close, as hundreds quickly fly to feed on the more than 20 feeders. Visitors can enjoy a cup of tea of complimentary light meal on the patio or garden or roam the well-manicured lawn trying to capture these quick birds on film. As soon as I get one still in the frame it flies away quickly, it’s iridescent feathers just a colorful smear in the sky. After about 20 minutes of feeling a mixture of awe and frustration at their speed, I decide to just sit on the ground very still, snapping shots one after the other without really looking. This is the only way to actually capture these majestic birds in action.

Yerette also gives visitors a chance to see the home of a local, as Theo and Gloria invite visitors in to browse their hummingbird photography and decoupage art gallery, as well as enjoy a light meal. Our lunch consists of calalloo soup, a well-seasoned broth containing peppers, coconut milk , dasheen, okra, pumpkin, salt and cilantro (shandonbenny), as well as a refreshing garden salad, plump bread rolls and a fresh juice selection of lemonade or sorrel, a local purple berry.

“Enjoying a delicious meal while watching hundreds of colorful hummingbirds is something everyone should experience,” I say to Theo, reveling in the majestic setting.

“You should have been here on Christmas!” he responds. “It was such a special day. We had 3,000 hummingbirds here. We call that a ‘hummingbird shower.’”

As I stand up, a hummingbird whizzes right by head, so fast I feel a breeze on my face. If I didn’t understand why Trinidad and Tobago is called the Land of the Hummingbirds, I certainly do now.

Green-throated Mango Hummingbird. Image via Yerette.

Logistics:

Yerette is located on Trinidad at 88 Valley View, Maracas Valley, St Joseph .Reservations are required for a visit, which you can make by calling 1-868-663-2623 (you can have your hotel call for you). The basic fee for a visit is $25 USD, which includes the ability to take in the live show of the hummingbird feeding and photograph them, hear some information on hummingbirds, peruse the indoor art gallery and gift shop, see an educational hummingbird film and enjoy a light meal (you may upgrade to a three-course meal for a fee). Yerette also puts on three organized tours per day, one in the morning, afternoon and evening. Contact them to enquire about bookings.

As Yerette is outside of Port of Spain and also difficult to find in a secluded location, you’ll want a local guide to get you there. We highly recommend Mr. Nick of Sensational Tours, whom you can email at SensationalTours@gmail.com. In fact, no matter what your sightseeing needs are in Trinidad Mr. Nick will provide an unbelievable tour based on your wants and needs.

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Bedouin children in Feynan

Indigenous culture is often a curiosity for outsiders, one we often want to know more about but which we have a hard time relating to once we do in. In my opinion, this is often because people are educating themselves through reading or listening instead of immersing.

In Jordan, I was given the opportunity to truly get to know Bedouin culture, which has a strong focus on strengthening relationships. These people aren’t concerned about money; in fact, they think it’s dirty. Instead, their rituals and traditions revolve around forming healthy and helpful relationships with each other and the land.

The generous Bedouin man who offered me fresh goat’s milk

First Encounters

My first encounter with the Bedouin community comes in Feynan, one of the few places in Jordan where authentic Bedouin culture still exists. Toward the end of a beautiful but arduous hike from Rumanna Camp to the Feynan Ecolodge through the Dana Biosphere Reserve, I begin to see numerous black Bedouin tents woven out of goat hair. One of the men from the tents notices my flushed face and shirt soaked in sweat and extends an invitation.

“He wants to know if you’d like some goat’s milk,” translates my local guide, Ibrahim.

We’re lead by the man, whose name is Saladin*, to a shaded outdoor area with cushions and pillows. We take a seat as his wife comes out with a giant bowl of thick white liquid for us to pass around the circle. The milk is thick and slightly sour, although as I sip I can feel my energy levels rising. This is not only my first taste of goat’s milk, but also Bedouin hospitality.

The grinding of the coffee in a Bedouin tent

A Taste Of Bedouin Coffee Culture

As Feynan Ecolodge, the destination of my hike, is not only committed to helping the environment but also the local community, they offer a range of experiences to guests that allow them a glimpse into this culture. Some of these include spending the day with a shepherd; learning how to make bread, weave goat hair and apply kohl eyeliner; sunset walks led by Bedouins; and becoming acquainted with the rich coffee culture.

This is how I find myself at the home of Adnan*, a local Bedouin employed by the hotel who brings me to his home for some coffee. The goat hair tent is spacious, and once again the guests are seated in a circle on cushions in front of Adnan’s father. Adnan speaks English, and I’m told that in Bedouin culture both friends and strangers are always welcome. In fact, Bedouins begin brewing coffee early in the morning to make sure they’re prepared for unexpected visitors.

Adnan’s father roasts the coffee beans in a pan over the fire. From there, he boils the water while also grinding the coffee with a mortar and pestle. As he grinds, he creates a rhythm that sounds like a song with a distinct beat, which I’m told is what lets others in the area know coffee is being brewed and they can come over to enjoy some. Because there is no doorbell, it is customary for visitors to cough as they approach.

Bedouin culture takes receiving guests to another level, as it is customary to allow guests — whether friends or strangers — to stay as long as they please. No questions are asked by the host for up to three days; however, on the fourth day the hosts are allowed to ask you your name and what you want, but not before.

When the coffee is finished Adnan’s father takes a sip. It is customary for the one who made the coffee to be the first to taste it, to show guests it is tasty and okay to drink. From there, a few cups are passed around to the group to share.

“Each person is allowed up to three cups,” explains Adnan. “Cup one is for the guest, cup two is for the mood and cup three is for the sword.”

When Adnan gets to me I inhale the liquid of the cup, taking in the steamy heat and spicy aromas. Sure enough, the coffee tastes deliciously bitter yet sweet with a touch of cardamon. While freshly brewed coffee is always a treat, this cup is particularly special as it is more than just a drink to these people, it’s a way of life.

In fact, coffee isn’t just about hospitality, it’s also a big part of negotiation in Bedouin culture. When Bedouins do business, negotiate or discuss marriage coffee is the vehicle for the discussion. For instance, if a man wants to marry a women he will go to the house of her family for permission. The answer comes through the coffee, with either the entire family drinking a cup together or nobody taking a sip, no verbal communication needed.

Bedouins dancing to traditional music at Captain’s Desert Camp

Traditional Bedouin Camping

While up until now I’ve been privy to a series of encounters with Bedouin families, I opt for an immersive experience at Wadi Rum by staying at a Bedouin camp. I arrive at Captain’s Desert Camp at night, walking into a whimsical outdoor world of paper lanterns which illuminate the property’s paths. My room is a spacious goat hair tent, lit only by candlelight.

Video taken at the Captains Desert Camp (dark but gives a sense of the music)

From my room I can hear music, the sounds of a lute (pronounced OOD) — a plucked string instrument with a neck and deep round back — tableh drums, and people singing. As I make my way to the center of the grounds I see the Bedouins are singing around a fire and smoking some fragrant apple shisha.

What begins as a calm sing-a-long soon escalates into a full-on dance party. The energy is high, as everyone forms a circle, holding hands and kicking out their legs as they laugh and run. Soon, the Bedouins begin picking guests out one-by-one to join them in the center of the circle for a dance off. While I can be shy when it comes to public speaking, I am overconfident when it comes to dancing. Once in the circle, however, I’m pleasantly surprised when one of the men gives me a run for my money, breaking out moves I’ve never seen before (some of which I wasn’t sure were physically possible).

Not only are the Bedouins desert-dwellers and traditionalists, they also know how to let loose and have a good time. And while I have a hard time believing Bedouins who around running tourist camps sit around their goat hair tents in the hot desert having dance parties on a regular basis, it opened my eyes to the reality that these native peoples didn’t have to be viewed as some kind of mysterious entity. They had their particular traditions and their way of life, but many of them also had jobs in tourism and in the village, carried iPhones and went to school. They were a group of people who adapted to living off the desert land without the need for riches, but still wanted to enjoy life. And after my time getting to know this culture, I can honestly say I not only learned about them, I learned from them.

Wadi Rum just before sunset

Essential Information

For travelers to Jordan wanting to have a similar experience, here is some essential information and recommendations:

Getting In

The national airline of Jordan is Royal Jordanian, although there are over 20 international carriers that fly into the Queen Alia International Airport in Amman. Upon arrival, all nationalities are required to purchase a tourist visa for 20 Jordanian Dinars (about $30).

Getting Around

While public buses can take you cheaply along major routes, for example, between Wadi Rum and Aqaba, the country is small enough that using taxis to get around — even for long distances — is a convenient and affordable option. Moreover, to be able to take your time and enjoy the many scenic drives Jordan has to offer, renting a car can be worthwhile.

Local Guide Services

Ibrahim El-Wahsh was my guide throughout the two weeks I traveled around Jordan, and I highly, highly, highly (did I mention highly?) recommend him. Not only his he fun-loving, comical and knowledgeable, he’s well-connected allowing for any travel issues to be quickly sorted out. His contact information is Wahashi@yahoo.com and +962 7 95915879.

Guided Hikes

Adventure Jordan is a great company for trekking in Jordan, especially for the those walking to hike to Petra. You can contact them at info@adventurejordan.com.

Accommodations Mentioned Above

Rummana Camp- Contact the tourism board at info@visitjordan.com or contactus@visitjordan.com
Feynan Ecolodge
Captain’s Desert Camp

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Before visiting Hocking Hills, Ohio, I wasn’t quite sure what to expect. While I’d heard the state was flat with not much to do, I also heard there were some quirky and adventurous activities to be experienced. After visiting for myself, the latter view won by a landslide.

One that really piqued my interest was a hike with Hocking Hills Adventure Trek that started with an informative forest and cave hike, and ended in a session of storytelling led by Wehyehpihehrsehnhwah, a native Shawnee Indian. While I knew the journey would be interesting, I didn’t realize what a live-changing affect it would have on me.

It’s odd that with 100 miles of hiking trails, not many people know about Saltpetre Caves Nature Preserve. That’s one of the reasons company owner Jim Stratton and naturalist guide Joe Brehm love to lead their tours here. We walk through Hemlock, White Oak, Greenbrier, mushrooms and the fun-to-say, Sassafras, which is known for its medicinal purposes as well as being an additive to beer. We shimmy through slots and caves, walk by lichen-covered trees and honeycombed sandstone, learning about local flora and fauna until we see a man dressed in a traditional pullover linen shirt with deer hyde leggings and a finger-weaved belt. At first Wehyehpihehrsehnhwah speaks his native language until he realizes we don’t understand him.

“I mean no harm,” he says. “Come in.”

We approach the cave dwelling and sit around the Shawnee man awaiting his stories. He begins talking about the times before highways and electricity. When the people of the Shawnee were related by their unity of their village, and everyone worked together to survive. He told us of Tecumseh, a famous Shawnee Indian, how the village didn’t have a class system and the importance of the “three sisters,” corn, beans and squash. You see, these vegetables are more than just food, they’re teachers. When the corn grows, it provides a stalk for the beans to wind up. In return, the bean plants stabilize the corn, as well as add healthy nitrogen to the soil. Additionally, the squash at the bottom of the stalk produce a giant leaf that acts as shade for the plant’s roots. On the leaf, you’ll also find a sharp pricker, perfect for protecting the “siblings” from hungry raccoons. The three sisters may be very different, but by working together they thrive.

“A long time ago, The Creator made everything,” explained Wehyehpihehrsehnhwah. “All the creatures could communicate because they were one.”

Image via GretheB

So, while people could talk to other people, they could also communicate with animals and plants. One day, the three groups got into a heated discussion about who was the best. Because men could build and invent, they believed they were the greatest creation ever to be made. However, the animals disagreed, as without them the humans would have no food. The plants had something to say about this, as without them both the animals and humans would starve and wouldn’t be able to build shelter. Suddenly, The Creator came down to intervene. He noticed a spider who had finished spinning its web, a tangible metaphor for the web of life.

“He was The Creator of the web, so he could do what he wanted with it,” said Wehyehpihehrsehnhwah. “But, the plants, animals and men could not.”

In the web of life, the smallest strand is just as vital as the biggest strand. Without the tiniest strand, the entire system would fall apart.

“Man, you may be the biggest but what you do can destroy the web,” said The Creator. Wehyehpihehrsehnhwah then gets solemn. “My question is, have we learned?”

It would appear not. We build walls of concrete, forgetting how to dance in the circle of life. We’re reminded constantly of how precious life is, but quickly forget with the next text message or Jersey Shore rerun.

Image via valjau86

Wehyehpihehrsehnhwah then tells a story of killing a deer. When we take a life, we need to realize how precious it is. The Shawnee make sure to use the entire animal. While Wehyehpihehrsehnhwah shares the meat for food with other Shawnee, his wife will sew a pair of leather gloves. They make candles and clothing, and when they use these products they remember the deer fondly. Every life is precious, no matter how small “a strand” it is.

He seems to be envisioning the deer as he speaks. “Brother, I may take your life. But, I do not take it lightly.”

“When I die, they will place an acorn on my grave. From it, a tree will grow and your family will eat the acorns from the tree.”

It’s the web of life.

When the storytelling ends, Wehyehpihehrsehnhwah plays the traditional Indian flute. The beautiful song pushes me deeper in thought as to what is important in life. How many times do we regard others as less important? Or take for granted the natural beauty around us? As I stand there holding my iPhone – almost a habit these days – I felt like a criminal. I quietly slid the device into my backpack and zip it up.

While it may be too late to completely get rid of the concrete and computers and revert back to the days of hunting and gathering, there are still ways to incorporate the messages of these stories into today’s fast-faced life. Slow down, appreciate, disconnect and never take for granted what the natural world can provide.

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A couple of tapas on my plate

“I feel like we’ve been transported to Italy,” I remark to my dinner companion, Alex. Impeccably-dressed waiters in black suits carry bottles of Tuscan wines and parmesan cheese rolls, while instrumental music sets the mood. Near the host stand, Italian ingredients and housemade liquors are displayed.

“Your table is ready,” says the dining room captain, as he leads us into the dimly lit dining room, the romantic ambiance immediately enveloping us.

As I pick up the wine list to begin perusing, a waiter comes to the table carrying an enormous Parmesan cheese wheel and hand cuts a generous chunk onto our plates. From there, we’re brought Italian tapas of bruschetta, mussels, sopressata, marinated zucchini and a sumptuous bread basket containing white and wheat baguettes and freshly made foccacia crisps. We immediately dig in, trying to act reserved and classy but not being able to contain our eagerness to savor the flavors — the fresh garlic of the mussels, the sweetness of fresh tomatoes on the bruschetta and the salty pork of the sopressata — in our mouths. It’s also always a plus when free food is brought out before you even order.

White wine. Image via HybridSys.

We finally work up the self control to put down our forks and begin looking over the wine list. It’s impressive, with a large selection from Italy and the United States as well as a few other international bottles, for example, a Callia Malbec from Argentina, a Penfolds Shiraz from South Australia and a 2007 The Foundry Cape of Good Hope Viognier from South Africa. In the end, we decide on a 2007 Puiatti Zuccole Sauvignon Blanc from Veneto. After swirling the glass I take a sip and let the liquid sit on my tongue before rolling it around. It’s light and elegant with a round mouth feel, a hint of sweetness and refreshingly fruity acidity. We choose the bottle because we want something affordable, and at $30 it definitely succeeds in pleasing both our palates and our wallets.

Knowing we are pleased with our selection, the waiter leaves the bottle on ice next to our table and we open our menus to begin our big decision. The dishes showcased are reminiscent of the Abuzzo region of Italy. Nestled along the country’s coast, it is one of Italy’s most fertile regions. Additionally, because in Italy it is typical to use a farm-to-table approach, Il Mulino brings these concepts to Atlantic City by using simple, fresh ingredients to create satisfying, flavorful dishes.

“What are you leaning toward?” asks Alex, her eyes frantically scanning the extensive menu. “The chicken and veal dishes all look good, although I’m kind of in the mood for seafood. And then there’s the pastas and risottos.”

She is right. Everything looks good, from the “Scampi alla Francese,” jumbo shrimp egg battered with lemon and white wine and served with spinach to the lightly-breaded dijon musard-glazed rack of lamb served in brown sauce to the homemade cannelloni pasta stuffed with veal, lamb, beef and spinach and topped with bechamel and tomato sauce.

In the end, we decide to go for the carb-heavy dishes made with uniquely Italian ingredients. The pastas also make sense to share, as you’re able to order half portions and get two separate pastas for the price of one. We decide on the seafood risotto with assorted Mediterranean shellfish, along with two pasta dishes from the specials, a pesto tortellini and black truffle ravioli.

Ordering pasta at Il Mulino is like sitting front row at a fascinating culinary show, as we can see waiters adding herbs, oils and proteins to pans in a truly open kitchen — it’s just a long table you can cook on — in the dining room. It doesn’t take long for our food to arrive — heaping plates of food that will soon become memories. As I have visited Italy personally, I can’t help but be taken back to certain places with each bite. I start with a sample of the pesto tortellini, the flavors of garlic, basil and pine nuts taking me back to Riomaggiore in Cinque Terre, a region famed for its unique basil-rich pesto. My travel companions and I would sit on our balcony overlooking the Italian Riviera, enjoying homemade meals of bruschetta and linguine topped with the local delicacy.

Next I move on to the truffle ravioli, which transports me to Chianti where I visited an organic wine and balsamic farm. The owner also produced truffle oil, and told us about how he would take his truffle hunting dog out at 3am so nobody would know where he found his delicious truffles. I was invited into the vineyard to do a tasting of his biodynamic wines, balsamics and truffle oils with local breads, cheeses and ice creams, and at this moment I’m right back on the farm.

Finally, it’s time for the seafood risotto. This dish first takes me back to New York, to days spend fishing and clamming with my father on his boat. Our family is from Naples, and I can remember sunbathing by the port before enjoying fresh shrimp, clams and scallops at the local restaurants.

Although Alex and I thought a pricier menu meant small portions, the dishes leave us full and satisfied after only a few bites. That being said, we’re both very against wasting good food, not to mention we wouldn’t be able to bring it home as we were traveling, so we proceed to finish every last bite. And despite our bulging stomachs and tightening skirts, it is completely worth it.

“And now for some of our homemade grappa,” smiles our waiter, pouring Alex and I a complimentary sample of the aperitif in a clear, tulip-shaped glass. “Would you like some dessert?”

Although we know we shouldn’t, hearing words like “tiramisu,” “tartufo” and “homemade Italian cheesecake” make us think we may have just a bit more room. We decide to share a slice of the flourless chocolate cake.

Alex and I slowly sip our grappa, the sweet flavor mixing with the potent kick, while also savoring the rich mocha of our cake and enjoying each other’s company. Looking at our watches, we realize we’ve been in the restaurant for four hours, just talking and appreciating the experience of good food and drink. It’s almost as if we’ve gone on a life-changing getaway together, and in a way we have, as I don’t think we’ll ever look at food the same again.

The post Il Mulino New York: Transporting Guests From Atlantic City To Authentic Italy appeared first on Epicure & Culture.

Photo via schmish 

Editor Jessica Festa introduces your palate to 10 interesting (and bizarre) cuisines from around Latin America:

1. Bull Penis Soup, Bolivia

Called Caldo de Cardan, this soup contains bull penis and testicles, which, by the way, looks exactly like a bull penis and testicles. I got to taste this at the home of a local, and although I knew “caldo” meant soup, I wasn’t aware of what the “de Cardan” would be. However, it became obvious that I would be eating genitals as soon as the bowl was placed in front of me.

While the broth is flavorful, with herbs and spices, the actual “meat” is a bit too chewy for my taste. For many, the meal is like an inexpensive all-purpose medication, helping to aid fatigue, anemia, and hangovers. And like most foods that make you gag at the thought, bull penis soup is considered an aphrodisiac.

Feeling: Healthy
Rating: 7/10

Hormiga. Image via Juliett. 

2. Big Butt Ants, Colombia

In Colombia, Big Butt Ants, or Hormigas Culonas, are snacked on like cocktail nuts. The delicacy is so highly sought after, they bring in ten times the amount of money per pound than Colombian coffee.

The preparation is a bit like a horror movie, as the ant is held in place, its head snapped quickly and without mercy. Next, the wings and pincers are plucked, and the body is left to soak overnight in salt water before it is fried. The finished product tastes and chews like bacon bits. Some consider it an aphrodisiac. I wonder if these people have ever tried wine and porn?

Feeling: Guilty
Rating: 3/10

3. Coconut Grubs, Ecuador

Coconut grubs — larvae that live in dead palm trees — are mainly eaten in the Amazon jungle. To help keep them flavorful, the stomachs are removed so you don’t taste the wood they dine on. From there, they’re marinated in wild orange and grilled. They’re actually delightful and crunchy, as long as you can forget you’re eating a fat, just-hatched insect from the rainforest. If you want a unique Amazon experience, and like the taste of citrus and peanuts, try this.

Feeling: Relaxed
Rating: 9/10

Cuy

4. Cuy, Andes Mountains

You may recognize these little guys as your childhood pet. Cuy, or guinea pig, is a common Andean staple eaten throughout Peru and Ecuador, and in parts of Bolivia and Argentina. The animals are fed special diets, like lemongrass and yellow carrot, that give them a distinct flavor. They are served whole with the head and feet still on. Once I got past that, guinea pig was actually pretty delicious, with a greasy chicken flavor. In fact, it became my favorite food in Ecuador.

Feeling: Surprised
Rating: 10/10

5. Llama Brain And Tongue, Bolivia

While eating llama meat isn’t so strange, eating brains of any kind is a lot to handle. And eating a tongue is almost like French kissing the animal. However, in Bolivia, where llamas are the national animal and are used for everything from clothing to fetus rituals to labor to food, llama brains and tongue are considered a delicious meal.

As a westerner, the brains almost brought me to vomit from the slimy texture, although the tongue was firmer and a bit easier to eat, as long as you don’t see it being prepared. For something a little more digestible, try the salted dried llama jerky, which I actually snacked on religiously.

Feeling: Resourceful
Rating: 2/10

Ant Eggs & Worm Tacos

6. Ant Eggs And Worm Tacos, Mexico

I ordered this dish in an upscale restaurant in Puebla called El Mural de los Poblanos. A local friend told me about how eating these insects, called Hormigas Escimoles (the ants) and Guasanos (the worms), is a delicacy in Mexico, and very typical.

The insects are cooked over an open fire in a pan, then presented with tortillas and guacamole to make soft tacos. While the worms have a distinct mesquite flavor, the ant eggs reminded me a lot of eating a sunny-side-up omelet. While the dish looks unappetizing, it’s actually very delicious, especially with some onions added.

Feeling: Satisfied
Rating: 9/10

7. Moripan, Argentina

I accidentally ordered this having no idea what it was because it was cheap. I knew “pan” meant bread, and although I wasn’t sure what “mori” was, I figured it couldn’t be that different from its delicious sister, the juicy sausage sandwich called choripan. Oh, how wrong I was. Moripan is actually blood sausage wrapped in cow intestine. While the dried blood has a mushy, bean-like texture and flavor, the intestine was extremely hard to chew.

Feeling: Embarrassed
Rating: 5/10

Mondongo. Image via alextorrenegra.

8. Mondongo, Colombia

Just enough cud flavor to let you know you’re eating stomach. Photo: alextorrenegra
The name of this dish sounds like a new Latin dance craze. In reality, it’s a soup made of cow stomach and entrails. They use all four stomachs of the cow to make it, and it also includes carrots, peas, avocado, and potatoes. The stomach has a chewy texture, which goes well with the thickness of the soup.

Feeling: Excited
Rating: 9/10

9. Chicha, Amazon Jungle

There are different varieties of chicha around South America. This traditional corn beer is made by the chicha maker chewing and moistening the corn in his mouth, which he then molds into small cakes with his teeth. These are laid out in the sun to ferment.

Natural enzymes in the human saliva convert corn starch into sugar, allowing for the beginning of the fermentation process. If offered the uniquely brewed beer, it is considered rude to decline, so you’ll need to forget what you know and just chug away. The beer is boiled before served, so technically it’s sterile, but still.

Feeling: Disgusted
Rating: 2/10

Turtle eggs. Image via Luisfi.

10. Huevos de Tortugas, Nicaragua

Although eating sea turtles is looked down upon in most parts of the world, it is part of the culture in Nicaragua. Huevos de tortugas involves eating the eggs of turtles, which have a very soft shell.

A hole is made at the top of the raw egg, and hot sauce or lemon juice is squeezed in to help cure the concoction, followed by a shot of rum. Not only is the meal very odd, it’s also dangerous. When eating sea turtle eggs, you’re also ingesting toxins, bacteria, and pollutants. I’ll leave turtle eggs for creating life, not eating.

Feeling: No way
Rating: 0/10

Originally posted on Matador Network

The post 10 Of The Weirdest Things You Can Eat In Latin America appeared first on Epicure & Culture.

Image via Eastern Standard

Eastern Standard

“I enjoy bourbon. Nothing too sweet. And flavors that are sour and spicy.”

I love venues like this. Mike and I are exploring Boston’s nightlife, starting with the Eastern Standard. The dim restaurant and bar is littered with high-top tables and soft candlelight, giving the allure of romance. While we love the elegant yet cozy ambiance, we are here for one reason: classic cocktails.

There is a parchment paper menu in front of me, but instead of browsing it I tell the waitress what flavors I like so she can recommend something special. She brings me a Lion’s Tail, a mix of bourbon, lime juice, pimento drams, gomme syrup and Angostura Bitters, with the ingredients being mixed and double strained into a chilled cocktail glass. The bartender has crafted these cocktails with the precision of a scientist, and the flavors compliment each other strikingly well.

Mike orders a Manhattan, his go-to drink of choice no matter what bar we go to; however, his reaction to the mix of sweet vermouth, bourbon whiskey and Angostura bitters tells me it’s as if he’s having the libation for the first time.

We sip slowly, wanting to savor every moment of the drinks. I can’t believe these cocktails are only $10, as I would have paid triple that to enjoy something so well-crafted. The Bar Manager, Jackson Cannon, comes over to our table to chat with us. I had interviewed him a few months ago for a piece on classic cocktails, and he wanted to thank me and show me around.

“Have you seen Island Creek Oyster Bar or The Hawthorne yet?” he asks.

I’m unsure what he’s referring to. “No. Are those nearby?”

He smiles. Apparently, they are more than nearby. They are in the same building, The Hotel Commonwealth, where Jackson influences all three cocktail venues. And so, our night of classic cocktails in Boston continues.

Image via Island Creek

Island Creek Oyster Bar

Is it possible for an upscale bar to moonlight as an oyster farm? At Island Creek Oyster Bar, I’m astounded at how they’ve managed to bring farm elements into this space and make it look pristine. Moreover, I’m a bit taken aback by the quick change from dimly lit romance to glitzy white interiors. Gabion cages filled with tens of thousands of oyster shells makeup the three-dimensional walls, while reclaimed Wyoming snow fence is used to create the shutters and wood from a restored Vermont farmhouse has been refurbished to build the wainscoting. Even when perusing a menu you’ll notice the names of small farms carefully listed next to each dish, each specializing in farming freshwater and marine plants and animals.

While Eastern Standard breathes life into pre-Prohibition cocktails and creates new cocktails, Island Creek focuses on quality cocktails with a local and seasonal twist. Although I know we have another stop after this one, I can’t help but order something just to sample, and Mike follows my lead. I opt for a mixture of crushed lime, Rich Demerara syrup and ICOB’s house 4 Rum called the “Snug Harbor Mash,”while Mike is well-behaved and samples an “ICOB Pilsner,” an exclusive pilsner brewed with jasmine and orange peel.

We take our drinks to the center of the restaurant, where our eyes settle on a stunning 38’ x 18’ photograph of Duxbury Bay at low tide, brought to life by artist Stephen Sheffield. Wanting to get to know the specialties of the venue a bit better, Mike and I order a plate of crispy oyster sliders with lime chile aioli and a helping of Steamed Duxbury Littlenecks with ICOB slab bacon, rosemary fennel broth and scallion butter. I’m seamlessly immersed in local aquaculture, while still being able to wear a clean party dress.

We finish only half our drinks, but all our food, as we know we still have on more stop on our classic cocktail’s in Boston crawl.

Image via The Hawthorne

The Hawthorne

Next, we move on to Jackson’s newest project, The Hawthorne. Here, the focus is truly on the bar and craft cocktails, with an expansive cocktail menu filled with nouveau classics, rediscovered favorites and rotating creations. Because the bar is technically a hotel bar, the idea is to bring some of the homey, residential feel into design of The Hawthorne. Jackson shows Mike and I around. It’s comfortable yet sophisticated, with an upscale urban apartment theme. In one area, a group of imbibers relaxes on a loveseat and plush chairs, surrounded by works by artists like Stephen Sheffield and glass coffee tables.

As we walk into a separate room off the bar, the background noise seems to go completely silent, and the ambiance softens. Tall bookcases and a globe sit next to a mix of nude, orange and zebra print chairs. Look closer at one of the bookcases, and you’ll notice it’s not just books in there, but some of Jackson’s favorite things, like his favorite spirits line and personal glassware. A simple rolling cart is setup in this quieter room, and Jackson shows us just how much they can do with a few feet of space and some drawers.

“Ready for some cocktails?” Jackson asks, taking us to meet Head Bartender Nicole Lebedevitch. I would actually pay money to sit and watch her make drinks. It’s as mesmerizing as a Broadway show. Except, there’s no acting here. Nicole seems to know everything there is about classic cocktails and making quality drinks, as she muddles, pinches and mixes hard-to-find spirits and ingredients, using about 20 different instruments to accurately pour each shot of liquor.

Once we are seated at the bar with our liquid masterpieces, Mike turns to Jackson. “So, do you have a favorite on the menu?”

Jackson looks perplexed, and we’re not sure if he heard the question. He turns to the bartender for help, but she just shrugs and laughs.

“Sorry, I’m not trying to be difficult,” explains Jackson. “It’s just that there is a time and place for each cocktail. It depends on what you’re eating, what your mood is. There are many factors that come into play.”

I must have been in the right mood at the right time, because my “Scarlett,” a mix of Russian Standard, berries, lime and ginger, is perfect. The ginger is the best part, spicy but not overwhelming. Mike seems to be enjoying his usual “Manhattan,” the rye whiskey, sweet vermouth and Angostura bitters flawlessly strained and served in a rock glass.

As we sip, I think of how nice it is to indulge in a quality drink, instead of chugging the cheapest wine a place has (guilty as charged). It takes us an hour and a half to finish our drinks, as we savor every sip, not wanting to the magic happening on our taste buds to end. When we are done, we thank Nicole and Jackson, and head for the door. I’m not drunk at all, just relaxed and happy, like a good cocktail should make you feel.

“Excuse me miss, you forgot your coat,” a gentleman in a black suit calls from the bar.

I guess a few classic cocktails can make me tipsier than I thought.

All bars can be accessed in the Hotel Commonwealth, at 500 Commonwealth Avenue in Boston.

The post A Classic Cocktail Crawl Through Boston, Massachusetts appeared first on Epicure & Culture.

HOSHINOYA Okinawa

“We create a culture here based on traditions while coexisting with nature,” explains Kyoko, the marketing representative for HOSHINOYA Resorts, which includes the property we’re currently touring, HOSHINOYA Okinawa. “The design of the property is based on the traditions and heritage of Taketomi island.”

Of the hundreds of islands in Okinawa, Taketomi is the only one to truly preserve the ancient traditions. The island is heritage listed, and as you walk through the village you’ll notice the buildings all look alike: red-tiled roofs, one-story homes, narrow coral and sand roads and coral lined yards.

While the Japanese are often touted as a stressed people, the people of Taketomi Island are the complete opposite, relaxed and laid-back. With only 323 people on the island, everyone knows each other and works together. Goods are made by hand using local resources and services are provided with passion and a smile.

Bedroom futon & tatami mats

At HOSHINOYA Okinawa, this traditional culture is reflected not only through the design of the property, but also the services and amenities. The self-contained villas are actually luxury ryokans, featuring tatami mats, futon beds, zori sandals, shoji sliding wood doors with paper screens and Yukata robes worn as leisure wear around the property.

When we get to my ryokan, I notice a menacing lion on the roof.

“That’s a shiisa,” explains Kyoko. “You’ll find it on every house in the village and on our property. It protects you from bad fortune.”

Apparently, some of these shiisas also hold objects that are good luck. After venturing around the property, I find a ball, a pinwheel and a ladder. The ball represents how when a person gets into their 70s they’re as well rounded as a ball, while the pinwheel signifies the child inside when a person gets into their 80s. Additionally, the ladder symbolizes the steps people take to reach their goals and their accomplishments in their 50s and 60s.

As I go to walk onto the yard of my villa, which has a partial standalone wall sitting in front of it, Kyoko stops me.

“You must enter to the left of the coral wall,” she explains. “The right side is for gods only.”

At the door, I’m instructed to take off my shoes and replace them with the slippers provided. I feel instantly at peace as I step inside, taking in the room’s light wood walls, naturally dim lighting and traditional touches. An oversized stand-alone tub sits in the center of the room and I see two over-sized tea bags containing bath herbs. I know what I’ll be doing after dinner.

Ishigaki beef

Dinner

The restaurant at HOSHINOYA Okinawa showcases an innovative type of cuisine brought to the island by the resort. Called Ryukyu Nouvelle, it makes use of French techniques, typical Okinawa foods and local ingredients, including herbs and produce from their onsite garden.

As I walk into the upscale restaurant with floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking the in-ground pool and lush forest, I’m brought a hot towel and washi paper menu. The dishes are innovative, with traditional staples like Ishigaki beef and Okinawa potatoes, and I feel excited to sample true Taketomi culture.

Ise lobster

The amuse-bushe for the night is a hearty piece of fresh marinated tuna from Yaeyama Island with green onion compote. The fish tastes like it was caught five minutes ago, while the onion gives the dish a bit of contrast. This is followed by a roasted Ise lobster from Taketomi, flavored with tropical spice as well as a protein-rich slice of juicy Ishigaki miya pork, served with an organic side salad.

By now I’m feeling satiated and happy, although the freshness of the food leaves me curious as to what other creative dishes the chef can come up with using only local ingredients. My question is answered as a steaming bowl of clam and winter melon is placed in front of me. The fruit adds a slight bitterness to the sweet and salty clams, making it a delicious dish of contrast.

More courses are brought out – butter-roasted Mibai Okinawan grouper dressed with coulis of Island spinach; oven-roasted Yanburu chicken topped with Tancan tangerine marmalade and Yaima miso paste served with Island potato and banana puree on the side; and seafood taco rice flavored with local vine-ripened tomatoes. I have never been much of a vegetable person, but when they’re fresh from the garden it’s amazing how they can enhance a meal.

My sweet tooth smiles once the desserts are brought. The Avant Dessert is a compote of tropical fruits, fragranced with sweet hibiscus, followed by a scrumptious Ishigaki Mango Tarte Tatin served with Jimami peanut ice cream. Knowing it’s sustainably prepared leads to me to believe I’m eating healthy, and I choose not to stray from this line of thinking as I finish every bit of ice cream and pie.

Pool after sunset

Say Ahhh…

After dinner, Kyoko and I head out by the pool for some Tin Nu Deep Breathing, or “Breathing of the Sky” exercises. It’s one of the many cultural activities offered by the resort, some others including morning Yonna Deep Breathing on the beach, a water buffalo cart ride, making cultural handicrafts and traditional weaving. Tin Nu breathing is designed to relax the body before bedtime while releasing toxins from the body through controlled breathing. With a bit of light from the pool illuminating our yoga mats, we breathe in through our mouths for four counts then exhale for eight, expanding and contracting our bellies. We begin standing, then sit Indian-style and practice our breathing while rolling in a circular motion on our backsides. From there, we’re instructed to reach as high as we can for the moon to grab its power and bring it into our bodies. By the time we get to the lay down position I’m so relaxed I think I may pass out.

The instructor, Tokiko, tells us an old story from Taketomi Island and the Yaeyama Archipelago of the Star Child which Kyoko translates for me. Once upon a time there was a mother and father star, who had a baby star. While they told the God of Sky, who gave approval, they didn’t tell God of Ocean. God of Ocean became very angry, using a big snake to kill the baby star. The snake’s feces became fossils, which is why you find star-shaped sand on the beaches of Taketomi. Because the mother and father star were sad, God of Sky put baby star into the sky as a fossil, which is why you see stars in the sky. It’s also why once a year the servants of God on Taketomi Island put the star-shaped sand in an “aroma pot” and give the sand a prayer in an “On” or “Shrine of God.”

Back in my room, I steep my tea bags for a soothing bath. Submerging my body in scents of locally-sourced lemon grass, fennel, dill and pineapple mint, I feel completely immersed in Taketomi culture. And with the island’s traditional weaving culture to locally-sourced food to the pure pride these people have in their heritage, it’s a beautiful feeling to have.

The post Tin Nu Breathing, Ishigaki Pork And Shiisas: Experiencing Traditional Culture On Okinawa’s Taketomi Island appeared first on Epicure & Culture.

Wine rack at Zumot Winery & Vineyards

“Jordan is actually a very old wine country. They discovered vines from Petra from 2,000 years ago.”

I’m at Zumot Winery, owned by Mr. Omar Zumot, near downtown Amman sampling the organic Saint George Wine of Jordan. The space is grand yet cozy, with a spacious interior, two floors, walls adorned with local artwork, a long tasting table, cozy couches and shelves upon shelves of wine bottles that make you feel like you’re in a vino-inspired library. Zumot planted his first grapes in 1996 in the fertile region of Madaba. While Jordan — or the Middle East for that matter — isn’t typically known for their wine, Zumot makes strategic use of Jordan’s reliable climate (the dryness eliminates common plant diseases) and soil rich in clay and basalt. Not only that, but they do it sustainably.

“If you work with nature you have a healthy product,”explains Arnist, a staff member at the winery. “If you use chemicals you’ll have chemicals in your body.”

Zumot Winery doesn’t use chemicals. In fact, they create biodynamic ecosystems on their vineyards where animals cohabitate to create an excellent grape-growing scenario. For example, while owls scare away the mice, sheep are brought onto the property to defecate and naturally fertilize the soil. This leads to an impressively delicious wine that you can feel good about drinking.

Traditional Jordanian foods at Zumot Winery & Vineyards

Because I’m with a large group of about 20 people, the winery has seated us at a long glass table with wine glasses already set out. Not only that, but they’ve had it catered with traditional Jordanian foods like samosas, spiced rice with fish, stuffed grape leaves topped with lamb, sheep with vegetables, falafel and salad. After everyone tops their plate with typical fare, the tasting begins, moving from white to red. We start off with a Tokai, a grape famous in Europe that has been planted in Jordan by the winery. The liquid has a greenish straw color with an apricot nose and hint of exotic fruits that adds some contrast to the spice-rich meal. Moving on to their Chardonnay, I notice the flavor is much more buttery and olive-flavored than a usual Chardonnay, although it still has the usual tastes of citrus that pair well with the flaky white fish on my plate.

When people begin asking questions about flavors and pairings, Arnist explains, “Drinking wine is never rational. It’s always emotional. It depends where you are, the time of year, who you’re with. Everyone’s taste buds are different and influence what you feel and taste in a wine.”

I appreciate the winery’s unpretentious approach to wine tasting. It’s true that everyone tastes differently. For example, while I immediately notice the Saint George Sauvignon Blanc’s mix of mint and vanilla, the man sitting next to me has a fruitier experience. For me, each sip transports me to the French Polynesian island of Tahaa where everything smelled sweet and fresh. As I had just been there touring vanilla plantations and hiking through lush foliage, the rich wine makes me smile at the memory.

Zumot Winery

While the whites are good, I particularly enjoy Zumoy Winery’s reds, most notably their Graziano. While it’s very fruit-forward with flavors of berries and plums, there is also a hint of eucalyptus that reminds me of how much I love trying new wine flavors. Their Shiraz-Grenache — a deep ruby-red wine with intense black cherry aromas and hints of dark chocolate — also makes me smile as I remember an experience I had making my own blend of Shiraz, Grenache and Mouvedre at Penfolds in South Australia.

Around the table everyone is laughing and talking, the volume of the room growing increasingly more boisterous.

“As you drink, the evening becomes more interesting,” laughs Arnist, who is sipping an interesting glass of Merlot with flavors of bacon, cashew, plum and touch of tobacco. While I’m not usually a big Merlot fan, I particularly like how the smokey flavor blends with the spice of the lamb and heartiness of the potato-stuffed grape leaf.

Knafeh via avlxyz

The epicurious experience ends with a traditional Knafeh dessert –which features white cheese drenched in sweet syrup and topped with crushed pistachios paired with sweet Muscat wine made in Jordan. We’re told because the muscat grape is harvested last it spends the most time in the sun, allowing it to become extra sweet. The decadent combination is the perfect way to end the night of savory, spicy and sugary culture.

For those visiting, large groups can organize a similar situation and have the tasting catered. Alternatively, individual tastings are possible with an appointment and allow you to sample an array of wines in a structured manner with baguettes, cheese and cold cuts. To book an appointment, call +962 6 461 4125 or email the winery at contact@zumot-wines.com. The winery is located at The Winemaker, 129 Arar Street Wadi Saqra, Amman, Jordan.

The post Flavors Of The Middle East: Organic Wine Pairing In Jordan appeared first on Epicure & Culture.

Treats from La Petite Souris Chocolate. Image via La Petite Souris Chocolate.

“The mission is to raise the energy of our community one body at a time,” says Char. “We are stronger working together than we are working individually.”

I’m inside Vibe, a personal vibrancy lifestyle management business speaking with the owner, Charlene SanJenko, or Char as the locals call her. From what I’ve been told, she’s a pillar of the Sunshine Coast community, empowering small businesses, facilitating networking and encouraging people to buy local. In her newest venture, Sleek and Sexy, she’s even helping people lose weight. After exploring the Sunshine Coast, where everyone knows each other’s name and nobody wears just one hat, she’s iconic of the region’s philosophy.

The Sunshine Coast is a laid-back region of British Columbia’s southern mainland that takes on a very tight-knit community feel. Vintage boutiques, organic cafes, local galleries, quiet beaches and nature trails make up the coast, which is home to about 50,000 people.

Char pulls out a bag of “Sweet Cheeks,” a local brand of nutritious chocolates containing ingredients like pulverized coconut, walnuts and coffee beans.

“Have you been to visit Amber yet?” Char asks.

Amber Stoby is a local business woman who owns La Petite Souris Chocolate. She is the creator of the “Sweet Cheeks” line, as well as a range of other chocolates made from organic fruits and nuts locally sourced from B.C.’s organic farmers. Although Amber is a small woman, she has a big passion for chocolate.

“In France, Le Petite Souris is a fantasy character akin to the tooth fairy,” explains Amber. “It’s about a loss of a piece of childhood, and I want people to experience the playfulness they may have lost along the way again through chocolate.”

My group is taken to what was once master bedroom of her home, which is now a production space. A mixing machine buzzes as it temps the chocolate, and Amber uncovers a bowl of homemade caramel. We’re making caramels, and she shows the group how to fill the molds, scrape the leftover chocolate off off the top and dump out the center. After 15 minutes of drying, we take the molds and fill them with the homemade caramel using a piping bag. Once they’re hard, another layer of chocolate gets poured on top to finish the treat. Biting into it, I vow never to waste calories on store bought caramels again.

From there, we learn how to make her specialty, a “Scarlet Bar” made with 64% bittersweet chocolate and aromatic dried raspberries bursting with a complex sweet-tart flavor.

“These are my most popular bar,” Amber explains. “I get the dried raspberries from Green Room Organics.”

Tomatoes

Of course, this is another example of how everyone works together on the Sunshine Coast. Linda Fogerty and her husband, Gabriel, own the farm, which is certified organic. They grow a variety of produce like tomatoes, Squash, potatoes, spinach and beans. Often, they’ll sell their goods at local farmers markets, as well as their gate in the yard. They’re in an area known as the “farm belt” on Henry Road and Russell Road, where local farmers work hard to feed and educate the community.

“People here are super self sufficient,” explains Linda. “They shop locally, support local business and grow their own food.”

The farmers also work together, selling each others’ produce, hosting workshops and putting on programs like “Sunshine Seedlings” that help growers start from scratch.

I learn just how successful the program is after visiting Arcturus Retreat Bed and Breakfast. For about $150 per night, visitors can enjoy private balconies, mountain views and gourmet food. Owned by Celia Robben, her goal is to make guests feel at home while also serving locally-sourced and organically-grown cuisine. In fact, one of their go-to producers is Green Room Organics.

“I buy their peppers, and my tomato plants, zucchini seeds and lettuce heads come from their “Sunshine Seedlings” business,” says Linda, before adding, “In the spring, they grow the best spinach.”

Yogurt parfait made with Holy Crap Cereal. Image via Holy Crap.

During breakfast, we’re served a variety of delicious fare: blackberry muffins with real blackberries, quinoa and zucchini cakes, Greek yogurt made with fresh berries and Holy Crap cereal, fresh fruit smoothies, locally-sourced bacon and Holy Crap pancakes topped with fruit jams from the hotel’s garden.

As you can guess, Holy Crap is a local business, and the biggest success story on the Sunshine Coast.

Once called Hapi Foods, this artisanal cereal company owned by Corin and Brian Mullins was selling only 10 bags per week at the local farmers markets. It wasn’t until a customer said “Holy Crap! This is good!” that their destiny changed, as did the name of the product. Suddenly, demand was booming. In fact, they were asked to be on the CBC television program “The Dragon’s Den,” which features entrepreneurs pitching their start-ups in the hopes of securing funding from venture capitalists, known as the dragons. When one of the dragons wanted to take the business off the Sunshine Coast, the couple refused, saying they wanted to keep it in the community that has supported them from the beginning.

Holy Crap is more than just cereal, it’s a resource for the community in terms of health and food insurance. After being stuck in the North American Ice Storm of 1998 and unable to get food, the couple realized they had to create a resource that was not only healthy, but also a survival kit. Made with chia and locally-sourced dried fruit, Hemp hearts and buckwheat, the cereal is certified organic, gluten-free and vegan. While other similar products contain sugar and salt additives as well as genetically modified and non-organic ingredients, Holy Crap doesn’t. Moreover, the product doesn’t ever go bad.

“At any given time, you’re three days away from your last meal,” explains Brian. “If there was a disaster, we have enough product here at the plant to feed every person on the Sunshine Coast for a week.”

Organic, handmade sorbet from Batchworks. Image via Batchworks. 

I ponder this my last night of the trip at the Painted Boat Resort. Sitting in their restaurant eating handmade organic sorbet from Batchworks topped with raspberries from Henry Reed’s farm and sipping a locally-sourced Twentyman’s Tea, I realize what a beautiful community this is. Never before have I seen such a passion for working with your neighbors to produce and higher-quality, sustainable way of life. For me, the destination wasn’t just a worthwhile vacation, but also an important life lesson.

Featured image via antibarbie

The post The Local Food Chain: Sustainable Connections On British Columbia’s Sunshine Coast appeared first on Epicure & Culture.

Local children bearing a miniature shrine

It is still very hot on this November day. Some of my friends living in Saitama, the large prefecture north of Tokyo, have invited me to come and visit them in their city of Kawaguchi for a matsuri, a Japanese traditional festival. The event is rooted  in religion linked to shintô, the Japanese indigenous religion. At matsuri you’ll find a lively atmosphere with parades, giant hana-bi (fireworks), games for children and many food and drink options sold at yatai (mobile food stalls). People like to put on a yukata (a cotton kimono), particularly for summer matsuri, which are the most common. Many matsuri count the parade of a mikoshi — a portable shrine that is supposed to be a divine palanquin — a vehicle for the deity. On this particular matsuri, the mikoshi would be taken out for a parade in the neighborhood.

My friends are eager to show me the event, particularly as I have stayed at their place in Kawaguchi in the past and know several people in the city. I enjoy Japanese matsuri very much and was looking forward to a day of having fun, eating good food and watching the parade; however, my first surprise occurs when I arrive at my friends’ apartment and one of them offers to dress me in a traditional outfit and happi coat, a kind of short cotton kimono especially worn for matsuri parades.

“Why do you want me to dress up?” I ask, confused by the request.

My friend smiles. “It will be fun. Besides, it will help you blend in with the costumed crowd.”

This particular friend owns a kimono shop and sometimes dresses me up in her kimonos just for the pleasure of taking pictures. Because of this I assume her idea of dressing me up in tradition garments is just to help me get into a festive mood. It doesn’t take long for me to realize I assumed wrong.

Local men — and the author — bearing the mikoshi

Becoming A Mikoshi Shrine Bearer

My friends’ motives become clear when I am pushed with giggles and encouragement into a group of mikoshi bearers who will be carrying the shrine around the city for the festival. While at first I think it is only for photos, I am soon offered to join the men’s group. And later, when the women take their turn, I am again asked to join and follow the group on their tour of the city. This is quite an unusual invitation for a gaijin (foreigner), particularly for one who doesn’t belong to the community. Another foreigner joins the group, although he has been living in the neighborhood for quite a few years and fully belongs to the mikoshi bearers association. Fortunately, my fellow co-bearers are kind and attentive, taking great care I don’t really carry the weight of the mikoshi the entire time. I am thankful, as the experience is not only completely new to me, but very unexpected.

Japanese mikoshi bearers have the habit of chanting “wasshoi” during each step they take. The original meaning of wasshoi is subject to interpretation, but the word is said in unison with strong conviction by the bearers, to encourage themselves while making the mikoshi shrine move in an up and down motion. The tradition also has the ability to create a commune energy that one can feel deep within oneself. Among that group of bearers I can sense the force of the group, and the fun and happiness they feel in sharing this moment of communion with one another.

A man encouraging bearers and giving them a rythmn by clapping woodblocks together

Festival Origins

Mikoshi parades have their origins in religion, and the parade does start from and finish in the shintô sanctuary. Shintô is Japan’s indigenous religion; it has strong links with animism, which has a strong respect for the divine forces of nature and the rhythm of seasons and agriculture. Shintô is therefore related to the primal energies of life and Earth. Matsuri are moments of religious expression; but more than that, they are moments when Japanese people make peace with their inner energy. It is now more of an opportunity to forget everyday life, to reunite with neighbors and relatives and get back to one’s roots.

Commencement

After the parade and a few “family portraits” taken by locals with the bearers — which, thanks for my friends, includes me — we are all invited to a lively dinner party at the sanctuary. Japanese take every opportunity they have to enjoy a good dinner and a few drinks, although I’m sure many of the bearers have already hydrated themselves with more adult drinks than water during the festival. The atmosphere is therefore already very animated at the start of the evening. As usual, the dinner starts somewhat formally, with several discourses and many congratulations, all celebrated with many kampai, the Japanese word for toasts and cheers. By the end of the affair, everyone is good and tipsy, with jovial conversations going on around the table.

Women mikoshi bearers wear traditional tenugui pieces of cotton clothes, folded in a decorative manner

Looking Back & Getting Involved

The unique experience, which came as a total surprise to me, remains one of my fondest memories of my time in Japan. I was glad to be given the chance to participate in that friendly local matsuri, not in the position of an outsider as I usually do, but as an insider, an opportunity that doesn’t occur every day. Although it is not a common opportunity for a foreigner, it is possible to be part of a matsuri parade during a long term stay by joining a local association focusing on dance, neighbors or culture. This is also a great way befriend locals and get involved in local life. Even in big Japanese cities like Tokyo, neighborhoods function as small villages, and it is great to be able to join in and feel like you’re part of the community.

Extra Scenes From The Festival

The mikoshi/portable shrine

A well-deserved rest after bearing the mikoshi

Even Teddy plays a part in the parade

A man playing a taiko (traditional drum), an important instrument of Japanese masturi

Neighborhood women clapping and singing to encourage parade participants

Parading the mikoshi around the city

The post Cultural Immersion: Becoming A Mikoshi Bearer In Japan appeared first on Epicure & Culture.

Australia is undoubtedly one of the world’s best food and wine destinations, specifically Melbourne. The city — which features a melting pot of ethnic cuisines, culinary philosophies and delectable trends — is constantly evolving and raising its standards. At the same time, new purveyors of food and wine challenge what, where and how people eat on a daily basis.

Here is a snapshot of the latest food and drink happenings in Melbourne and surrounds:

Dessert As The Main Event

Skipping dinner might be the most sacrilegious thing for a foodie to do. In Melbourne, experiences like Pierre Roelofs’ dessert degustation at Café Rosamond, Trocodero’s caramel cooked cream, Golden Fields’ peanut butter parfait and ‘forest floor’ at new dining hotspot Brooks of Melbourne have diners reaching straight for the dessert spoon. Additionally, Mr Hive Kitchen and Bar at Crown Entertainment Complex offers a three course sugar extravaganza with a take home goodie bag of their Dessert Bar treat.

Dining For A Good Cause

A number of Melbourne food and wine establishments are helping those in need – profits from drinks purchased at not-for-profit bar Shebeen are sent to development projects in third world countries. Charcoal Lane in the Gertrude Street precinct supports indigenous youth by offering traineeship opportunities and STREAT at Melbourne Central provides homeless youth with hospitality training. Meanwhile, Scarf helps disadvantaged youth by providing mentoring in the hospitality industry with industry experts from several of Melbourne’s top restaurants.

A Growing Speakeasy Scene

Melbourne’s underground bar scene continues to prosper with hidden Melbourne bars like Bar Americano, Bar Ampere and The Everleigh, taking their artisan cocktails to new levels using foraged herbs, house-made liquors and bespoke spirits in their elixirs. No menu is needed at these venues, as you can simply tell the bartender a bit about your palate to have something crafted specifically to your tastes.

A New Challenger In The Dumpling Arena

Back in the city, cult dumpling scene trailblazer HuTong Dumpling Bar has been joined by new cult dumpling house ShanDong MaMa and authentic Sichuan Dining Room as champions of provincial Chinese cuisine. We’re curious to see who the reigning champion of traditional dumpling making will be in a year’s time.

A Growing Cheese Culture

House-made cheeses, rare international varieties and local farmhouse cheeses play a strong role at a number of popular eating spots around Melbourne. Milk the Cow and Il Fornaio in Melbourne’s St Kilda precinct offer a selection of local, international and house-made cheeses with matched wines. Additionally, La Laterria, just north of the city center and Richmond Hill Cafe and Larder are excellent choices for a cheesy experience as both make their own in-house queso. The newest addition to the mix is Spring Street Grocery, which offers comprehensive tastings where visitors can take home the spoils.

An Appreciation Of Fine Dining

The appreciation for fine dining continues with Andrew McConnell’s latest venture Moon Under Water on Gertrude Street. Providing a high-end dining experience, it joins the ranks of highly acclaimed restaurants such as Jacques Reymond in Toorak, Ben Shewry’s Attica in Ripponlea and Shannon Bennett’s Vue De Monde, located on the 55th floor of the Rialto building.

A Coffee Culture That Continues To Grow

Melbourne holds on to its crown as the coffee capital of Australia with the Melbourne International Coffee Expo hosting the World Barista Championships from May 23 to 26. New roasters opening doors around town with names like Code Black Coffee, Petty Officer and Top Paddock are hitting the scene alongside outposts of existing favorites like St Ali North and Market Lane Coffee in inner-suburban Carlton. City hotspots such as Manchester Press, Sensory Lab and The League of Honest Coffee continue to satisfy Melbourne’s endless thirst for caffeine.

Local Rooftop Honey

Melbourne restaurants and retailers are using rooftop space to create honey to supply the city’s hospitality scene. Spring Street Grocery’s gelateria, Luxbite and Burch & Purchese are just a few top food and wine purveyors drizzling goods with Melbourne’s Rooftop Honey. At Clementine’s down Degraves Lane, you can pop in for free honey tastings from Melbourne’s different neighborhood rooftops.

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Maroto Valley with view of Tahiti’s highest peak, Mount Orohena at 7,352 feet/2.241 meters

Crystal reservoirs, cascading waterfalls and lush greenery dotted with colorful flowers and fruits. Maroto valley, also known as Papenoo valley, is located in the crater of a volcano in Tahiti’s hard-to-access interior and was what ancient Polynesian’s called home. Today I am getting to see it — somewhat through their eyes — as a day trip.

Rocky of Marama Tours is my guide for the day, and will be driving us through the difficult-to-reach interior in a 4×4. Covered in tattoos relating to his heritage, he is a friendly man who loves telling stories of his grandmother.

“My grandma always taught me how to appreciate my ancestors,” he explains. “She taught me all about how to use plants for food and medicine.”

You can tell that despite living in modern times he still thinks of this as his home, especially as he is constantly stopping the vehicle to pick up trash others have thrown onto the ground.

He shakes his head in disgust. “Ancient Polynesians once had a deep respect for the land. Now we live in an age of consumerism and people have forgotten.”

Red ginger. Image via kamuelaboy.

Aside for the random pieces of litter the valley looks pristine and untouched. Every 10 feet there seems to be a lookout point awarding a postcard-worthy view, not to mention the bright orange African tulips, vibrant purple wild orchid, blazing sun yellow hibiscus and fiery red ginger that enhance the scenery. Once we’ve gotten enough photos — although you can never have enough landscape pictures — Rocky takes us to his favorite restaurant, Relais de la Maroto.

“It’s my favorite restaurant in the world!” he shouts excitedly. “You can enjoy a meal while inhaling fresh air and taking in the view of the valley.”

Rocky is right. Actually, his description was an understatement. Not only are you enjoying a view, you’re immersed in it as you sit on their outer deck surrounded by lush valley.

What I particularly love about the restaurant is it serves traditional French Polynesian cuisine — something unusually difficult to find in Tahiti — as well as Tahitian wines an beers.

Traditional meal at Relais de la Maroto

In French Polynesia locals try to have five specific trees in their yard — banana, breadfruit, lime, coconut and a choice between mango or papaya (or both) — as these create the foundation for a traditional Tahitian meal. Simply add some meat and coconut milk and you’re set. Today’s lunch reflects this traditional way of thinking with an entree of chicken marinated in coconut cream served with spinach and raw tuna marinated in lime and coconut milk as well as breadfruit crisps. With each bite, I’m reminded of how delicious living off the land can be as I taste my way to traditional Polynesia. Even before Top Chef and Anthony Bourdain ancient Polynesians were successfully combining simple ingredients to create flavorful meals.

We continue our tour of traditional Polynesian culture with a tribute to Rocky’s heritage by doing one of his favorite things: foraging. The dirt road is lined with bright wild strawberries ripe for the picking — and eating. The best spot for finding natural snacks, however is at Marae Fare Hape.

Marae Fare Hape

In Polynesia, marae refers to ancient temples where priests were allowed to call on gods to give them strength for work and fertility. This particular marae worshiped the god of the dog, which becomes clear when you see the long wooden sticks with carved dog heads attached.

Built in the 14th century, Fare Hape used to be a place where religious practices and spiritual ceremonies took place. Actually, today Polynesians from all over the world — Hawai, New Zealand, Tongo and beyond — travel here once a year by double canoe to share cultures. Due to its location in the center of a volcanic crater, the site was also believed to hold special religious power. A visit allows you to see what remains of the temple, which is in pretty decent shape as Haururu, a society of caretakers, have dedicated themselves to maintaining and educating about the site. The best part, however, is the abundance of natural foods growing near the ancient temple — guava, macadamia nuts, chestnuts, coconuts, grapefruit and more — providing a reminder of our land’s bounty and how ancient Polynesians lived off just that (as well as a healthy snack).

While jungle landscapes are beautiful and have much to offer, they come with one pitfall: mosquitos. As soon as Rocky sees me itching he stops the 4×4, grabs a knife and hops out. I see him stand on the hood and begin picking potato-shaped bumpy green fruits.

Noni. Image via embalu.

“It’s noni,” he explains as he climbs down and cuts one in half. Feverishly, he begins rubbing the two ends together, causing juice to drip from the inside. “Rub the juice on your mosquito bites. It’ll stop the itch and by tonight they will be gone.”

I do as instructed, rubbing the fruit all over my inflamed bumps. Within a few minutes, the itching has subsided.

“How did you figure that out?” I ask, amazed.

Rocky smiles. “My grandmother.”

Of course. Did I really have to ask?

As we drive home, Rocky suddenly looks in the mirror and smiles. “For me the Maroto Valley is magic. You may go in feeling stressed, but you leave feeling at peace.”

Want more on French Polynesia? Check out this AFAR Wanderlist on the stunning destination.

The post A Sweet And Scenic Journey Back In Time To Ancient Polynesia appeared first on Epicure & Culture.

Fufu

Editor Jessica Festa tries five traditional Ghanaian dishes.

Fufu In Ground Nut Soup

Usually served in a base of Ground Nut Soup, this cassava-based dish is a local favorite. Ground Nut Soup is basically peanut soup, with a thick peanut paste as the base. Vegetables, such as onions, red chilies, and tomatoes, are added and give the soup a spicy kick and an oily texture

Cassava, a starchy root vegetable, is boiled in water and then pounded in a mortar and pestle. Usually, one person will pound the substance while another uses their hand to rotate it in between each smash (which, to me, always appears like a dangerous situation).

To eat it, use the right hand to pull off a small piece and create a small indentation to scoop up some of the soup, then eat. Fufu reminded me of pulling a piece of gum apart as the consistency is quite thick and sticky and there’s no need to chew.

My companion Paul, a local Ghanaian, scolded me quite a few times, saying, “Stop chewing it! It’s already soft!”

I replied, “I can’t help it! When something’s in my mouth I chew it!”

Banku with tilapia

Banku With Tilapia

While Banku may appear similar to Fufu in shape and texture, it is actually quite different. The base of Banku is maize, giving it a corn flavor. In Ghana, the locals grind up the maize and ferment it with water for 4 days to make corndoe. Once the corndoe is ready, water is boiled in a saucepan and the corndoe is added, stirring constantly.

To eat it, the right hand once again is used. This is because in Ghana it is considered offensive to eat with your left hand, as this is used for “cleaning”, which, as my friend Michael from explained, means wiping after you go to the toilet. I never accidentally used my left hand but it was something I was pretty conscious of. Lucky for me, I’m a righty.

Because it is another soft dish, there is no need to chew; you can just swallow as is. While it can sometimes be served in okra soup, I most enjoyed it with a side of hot pepper sauce. Then again, I love anything that sets my taste buds on fire.

Banku is often served with Tilapia. What was most surprising to me when first eating this dish is that the Tilapia comes with the head and scales still attached, and the task of deboning is left up to the eater.

Once you get over the fact that fish still looks alive, it is pretty simply to eat. Use your (right) fingers to peel back the skin and remove chunks of meat (and small bones, which you can leave on the side of the plate).

Red red with plantains and fish. Image via sshreeves.

Red Red With Plantains

While the name may sound like something from The Shining (especially when it is written in drippy red paint against a white signboard) the dish is actually black-eyed peas that are stewed with spices, tomatoes, peppers, onions, and red palm oil. The red palm oil saturates the dish giving it a red hue, hence the name.

I have tried plantains many times: plantain chips, roasted plantains, fried plantains, and I have never been able to get them down. My house mother in Ghana even gave me a baked plantain that was still whole and looked ripened to sweetness, but I still couldn’t get over the tastelessness of it.

However, whenever I had the plantains served with Red Red, I loved them. Fried, sweet, and a bit gooey, they remind me of a dessert rather than a meal. They are fried in oil until they brown and then sprinkled with sugar. Everything always tastes better by pouring sugar over it.

Among my volunteer group, this was hands-down a Western favorite, probably because it tastes a lot like baked beans and bananas, which we were used to from home. Don’t be too afraid of getting messy with this dish, as the host or restaurant will usually supply water bowls for you rinse your hands in, one for before your meal and one for after.

Boiled yam with pavalar sauce. Image via Rahama-african-cuisine.com.

Boiled Yam With Palaver Sauce

I found this dish to semi-resemble boiled potatoes, although they have a stringier texture. The Palaver sauce contains cocoyam leaves, dried fish, spices, red palm oil, tomatoes, and chili pepper, which I liked because I often felt as though I was lacking in one food group or another while traveling. This one had everything. Unless you are in a major tourist destination, it can be hard to find cooked vegetables (at the risk of getting dysentery, I would stay away from raw vegetables).

Palaver Sauce starts with heated red palm oil and water in a pot. Stir and simmer the cocoyam leaves first, and then the dried fish, vegetables and spices. Many times chunks of chicken or beef are also cooked with Palaver Sauce. While this it’s called a “sauce,” I often ate it as a meal on its own; though that isn’t the traditional way of eating it.

Snail. Image via levisz.

Snail

This was, by far, the most difficult Ghanaian dish to swallow (Literally! It’s extremely salty and chewy). Snails can either be fried or boiled. Often I saw the snails on kebobs, which would probably be the easiest way to first try this dish as they kind of resemble mushrooms on a stick, although not nearly as soft.

This meal was prepared for me by Issac, one of the boys from the children’s home from where I was volunteering. He had caught and cooked the snail himself just for me and even put the snail on a toothpick, making it resemble a cocktail-party hors d’evour.

I closed my eyes, held my nose (it smells a bit rubbery), counted to three, and took a bite. In return for the snail I made Isaac try some of my Sour Patch Kids that I had brought from home. He looked petrified, licking the tiny candy with the tip of his tongue, gagging and coughing, just as I had moments ago eating snail.
This article was originally published on the Matador Network

The post A Guide To Traditional Ghanian Cuisine appeared first on Epicure & Culture.

Breadfruit. Image via kamuelaboy.

“What’s the traditional food of Polynesia like?” I ask Aiata, my taxi driver in Tahiti.

She smiles. “Everything we need comes from five specific trees. We mix the fruits from these trees with meat or fish for a complete meal.”

According to Aiata, locals try to have five specific trees in their yards: breadfruit, banana, coconut, lime and a choice between papaya or mango (or sometimes both). Fun fact: According to Aiata, lime doesn’t just add flavor to a meal, it also makes for a great deodorant.

“Sounds like a healthy diet,” I respond, thinking about how many natural fruits these people must eat.

She laughs. “The dishes are actually quite fattening. Breadfruit is very starchy, and we usually use an oil-based coconut milk as the sauce.”

Apparently, the roots of the Polynesian diet come from a time when locals were hunters, gatherers and fishers, and could easily burn off their consumed calories through their activities.

“Today the most exercise people around here get is when they get up to get their remote,” laughs Aiata. “Exercise hasn’t caught on here the way it has in Europe and other countries. The culture here is to just relax.”

Regardless of its caloric content, traditional Polynesian food is quite delicious. My first encounter with it is through a dish called poisson cru, which is often touted as the national dish. Similar to a tuna ceviche, this dish is a typical starter or side dish to a meal and includes fresh raw tuna soaked in salt water and placed in a mixture of sliced onion, ginger, parsley, lime juice and coconut milk. Just as Aiata had explained, the dish takes a protein — in French Polynesia it’s typically a fresh fish — and makes use of the local fruits to make it into a complete meal.

Polynesian feast. Image via Princess Cruises.

Traditionally, fruits and meats are cooked in an ahima, or underground Earth oven. The process involves pre-heating the oven with wood and placing volcanic rocks on top, which heat the food once the fire goes out. Fish, pork, chicken, breadfruit, taro and other produce are wrapped in coconut leaves and placed on the rock, while banana and purao leaves as well as dirt are placed on top to keep the heat trapped and cook the food fully. Once it’s done, the foods can be dipped in coconut cream sauce and enjoyed with the fingers. This meal is usually served on Sundays, for special occasions or on weekends when locals head to the nearby motus for a barbecue. If you don’t have any friends who are locals that can introduce you to this, certain tours include a traditional Tahitian barbecue on a motu or typical Tahitian feast to give you a sense of the meal.

Another fun way to explore French Polynesia through it’s essential trees is through a snack known as a Polynesian Hot Dog. The simple dish features a banana cut down the middle with coconut slices placed into the opening. While the banana acts as the bun, the coconut is like the meat.

While French Polynesia, especially Tahiti, is a melting pot of cultural influences with everything from Italian to Chinese to Vietnamese food, one common finding throughout the islands is a focus on French dishes made with local ingredients. Don’t be surprised to find pate enhanced with a local mango chutney, carpaccio made with local smoked fish and a creamy lime sauce or shellfish sublimed in a coco curry emulsion. These dishes allow you to appreciate the French influence over the destination as well as local agriculture.

Image via Girl Cook’s World from her recipe of Banana Po’e

While I’m not a huge fan of sweets, the traditional Polynesian Po’e has me at a loss for words, which I sample during a homecooked meal at one of the pensions I stay at. Po’e is a fruit pudding featuring pureed banana, brown sugar, arrowroot and vanilla and topped with coconut cream. The taste is satisfying and reminiscent of a fruit laden tropical paradise (which it is).

The cuisine of French Polynesia is a trip in itself, engaging all the senses. Touching the colorful fruits and seeing their vibrant colors. Smelling scents of grilled seafood, fried breadfruit and sweet pineapple and hearing it sizzle as it’s being cooked. And of course, tasting local flavor, whether through the traditional Polynesian manner or French cooking with a local twist, which is best enjoyed on a white sand beach with a tropical cocktail enhanced by local fruits and flowers. After savoring a meal in this fashion myself, I can completely appreciate French Polynesia’s relaxed culture, and why they don’t mind gaining some extra weight for the sake of a fresh culinary experience.

Featured image of possion cru via Tahiti.com

The post Savoring French Polynesia Through Its Five Essential Trees appeared first on Epicure & Culture.

“How do we enter the wine cellar?” I ask Sally, one of the owners of Kingsford Homestead, a historical food and wine hotel located at the edge of South Australia’s Barossa Valley.

We walk through the slate flagged entrance, over sandstone tiles, imported from Edinburgh, until we reach a cedar buffet dresser in the hallway. There are some magazines stacked on top, as well as a bowl of fresh cherries. Sally smiles and points to the table.

I frown. “I don’t understand. Where is the cellar door?”

Her husband Pat comes to join her and together they open the chest to reveal a set of stairs leading down into an dimly lit stone cellar filled with over 400 local and international wines.

Commissioned in 1856, the two-story Georgian building is a 5-star boutique homestead featuring seven well-appointed rooms with views overlooking the vineyards and countryside. Pat and Sally are the hosts, and love encouraging visitors to really experience the flavor of the Barossa through their all-inclusive program. Guests can help themselves to fully stocked fridges of beer, wine, bubbly and spirits and indulge with a drink in their Outdoor Bush Bath, a luxury bathtub set in the property’s secluded forest.

Image via Kingsford Homestead

After canapes and drinks on the patio overlooking the gardens and rolling hillsides, I join the group I am traveling with as they make their way downstairs for the first epicurious adventure in the Barossa: A candlelit degustation dinner in Kingsford Homestead’s wine cellar.

While each dish has a tantalizing flavor, made more intense by using locally sourced ingredients, the most innovative selections are from their “Kingsford on a Plate” series. Inspired by Chef Stuart Oldfield, the dishes showcase ingredients used in recipes during the 1856 history of Kingsford with a gorgeous modern twist. The shining star is the six-hour slow-cooked beef daube, which would once have been a simple beef and vegetable stew, but has since been reinvented with the addition of a Barossa Shiraz reduction. The meal is paired with the homestead’s signature Barons of the Barossa labels, which come from local winemakers like David Franz, Peter Lehmann and Wendy and Tony Brookes.

The other menu options are also delicious, including a Poached South Australian king prawn served with celeriac, avruga and chives, local beetroot with goats cheese crème, an international selection of creamy cheeses with soft mould crackers and fig paste, and a delicious dessert of fruity roasted rhubarb, buttery hazelnut shortbread and citrus twist of orange mascarpone. As a pairing to the meal, we enjoy on the homestead’s signature Barons of the Barossa labels, which come from local winemakers like David Franz, Peter Lehmann and Wendy and Tony Brookes.

Image via Kingsford Homestead

A 1962 Daimler

The next morning, Pat drives us up to the end of Kingsford Homestead’s long dirt driveway to meet our tour guide for the day, John Baldwin of Daimler Tours.

“John is very particular about his car,” explains Pat. “He doesn’t like to get it dusty.”

I’m immediately confused about how someone who leads driven tours around the Barossa Valley can be so nervous about his car getting dirty; that is, until I see the 1962 Daimler parked at the top.

Now I understand why John’s company is called Daimler Tours. The company’s philosophy is not to offer pre-planned itineraries, but to get to know its guests and base the tour off what people want. We let John know that while some of the group is interested in history, others would like to learn more about the area’s culinary offerings.

The Future Of The Barossa’s Wine

Driving past endless vineyards and rows of red City of Belfast roses, we make our way to Yelland and Papps in the heart of the Barossa Valley.

“These guys are our future,” explains John. “They’re setting a standard for the future of the Barossa Valley.” In fact, their first wine came out in 2007.

We enter a space that is clean and rustic adorned with antique and handcrafted furnishings. A charming wooden hutch, built by Susan’s (the winery owner) grandfather, showcases homemade jams and chutneys. Their bar is crafted from recycled wood from a 27 Chevy, and the menus are made of brown recycled paper.

“We started doing this in a spare room in our house,” says Susan. “Once the business began to grow, we bought this space so we could really experiment and make our own grapes.”

Image via Yelland & Papps

“We want people to immediately realize we’re different when they walk in,” explains Susan. “We’re focused on sustainability. We grow fig trees, mulberry bushes, walnuts, have a veggie garden and a sheep shed and we like to make use of what we have for our products.”

Outside, the group enjoys a French picnic among the vines with a meal of bread, cheese, jams pork rillett, prosciutto and a gorgeous selection of chutneys homemade from family recipes.

We first sample their Delight Vermentino. The winery is unique in that they are the only ones blending Vermentino with 100% Barossa Valley fruit. With a light body and citrus aroma, it’s made for “drinking not thinking,” which is reflective of the entire Delight Series. Next, we sample their 2011 Delight Vin De Soif, with 69% Grenache, 15% Mataro, 14% Shiraz and 2% Carignan.

“We hate that people stop drinking red when the weather warms up,” says Susan. “We want to encourage people to continue drinking red even when it’s summer.”

The red is chilled and light, with easygoing flavors of red cherry, raspberry, red plum and cranberry. While the winery offers the more complex Devote and Divine series, the relaxed picnic atmosphere perfectly matches the breezy wines.

Yalumba cooperage

Old-World Barossa

It’s good we’ve rested up, as it’s now time for the group to leave and burn off the French bread and charcuterie by biking four miles from Nuriootpa to Angaston via the Barossa Valley Bike Trail. The section of the bike trail we’re traversing takes us on a paved path through endless vineyards, golden wheat and canola fields and vibrant patches of roses with scents so strong it permeates the cool air.

When we arrive at the English/Scottish town of Angaston, John arranges for our bikes to be picked up and we make our way to Yalumba, the oldest and largest family-owned winery in Australia. Open since 1849, the business has been passed down from generation to generation and remains a family enterprise to this day.

“We’re also the only winery in Australia and one of the only in the world that has its own barrel making facility,” explains Benny, who has been working in various roles at Yalumba for 16 years. Continuing the tour, Benny points out The Signature cellar.
“Our signature wine is a Cabernet Shiraz appropriately named The Signature because once a year we put the signature of one of our dedicated workers on the barrel.”

While the tour is lovely, the winery is best explored through the palate, as we soon learn during a tasting of their Pewsey Vale Edan Valley Riesling 2012 and The Signature.

The Riesling is pale straw in color, with intense fruit flavors of lemon and lime and a hint of crushed stone however, The Signature steals the show. A full-bodied red wine, the varietal is a mix of Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz that is iconic of the Barossa. It’s a deep red, with intense fruit flavors as well as hints of American oak, which come from their cooperage where vintners flavor, season, temperate and construct their own wine barrels by hand. The experience is reminiscent of old world Barossa, especially as we tour the valley in a classic car from 1959.

To add to the epicurious experience, we stop at the Barossa Valley Cheese Company. Taking up half the room is an enticing case of ripened cheeses. John has brought us here at just the right time; as it turns out we have walked in at the beginning of a free tasting session.

“We specializes in handcrafted soft cheeses,” says Jan of the Barossa Valley Cheese Company. “Soft cheeses are ripened from the outside to the center, so flavors move inward.”

While the Barossa Geo is elegant with a smooth and creamy texture, the white mold Barossa Camembert is rich with slight hints of mushroom. The slightly sweeter cheeses include the Barossa Washington — silky with a flavor that seems to build in intensity as it moves about the palate.

Then tasting ends with a bit of royal treatment — two goal milk cheeses — the robust Le Petit Prince and my personal favorite, the tangy and nostalgic Le Petit Princess. While all the cheeses are enjoyable, I can’t help but think how nicely they would pair with a fine wine. Luckily, there are endless wine experiences in the Barossa Valley.

Image via Kingsford Homestead

In The Wine Lab

While we’ve visited old world and modern wineries, the group has yet to actually create their own blend. This is why John brings us to Penfolds, another lovely winery located in the heart of the Barossa.  After putting on our lab coats, we go up to the lab to create our blends based on the Penfolds Bin Series. We mixed Grenache, Shiraz and Mourvedre in beakers using different percentages until we concoct an enjoyable blend.

“If you’re making wine for yourself there’s no right or wrong,” explains Noelene, our wine lab instructor. “That being said, one hint is that Grenache is often the predominant variety, but not always.”

First we taste each individual variety. While the Grenache is very aromatic, the Shiraz is a bit fuller and spicier, adding richness and weight. The Mourvèdre on the other hand is more complex and earthy in character, with hints of licorice.

At first I feel trepidation, but once I make my first blend, relying mainly on the spiciness of the Shiraz, I feel like maybe I have a future in the wine industry.

A Delicious End

As our tour comes to a close at TV personality Maggie Beer’s Farm Shop, it becomes overwhelmingly clear that it’s simply impossible to ignore the epicurious culture of the Barossa. Along with highly quality coffee and interesting tea blends like Rainwater Mint, Sunday Roast, Orange Earl and Wine and Roses, the shop is a mecca of free samples. Walking around, we taste marmalades, jams, sauces, vinegars, oils, marinades, pastes, vino cottos, sugos and, of course, her signature pâtés, all made by Maggie and her staff.

Image via Maggie Beer’s Farm Shop

As I sit outside sipping a chocolate marmalade tea and indulging in an enormous homemade lemon merengue tart, I’m enveloped in the incredible scenery and delectable culture of this region.

A peacock wanders by the table while turtles swim in the cloudy blue onsite pond. People don’t do things in the Barossa unless they can do them well. This philosophy is the lesson of the day, and I’ve learned it well through intimate wine tastings, locally-sourced cheese samplings, world-class sustainable restaurants and celebrities that actually care about the community. It’s refreshing and satisfying in the way only a well-aged wine and pheasant farm pâté can be. It’s true Barossa Valley culture at its finest.

*This article was originally posted on The Culture-Ist

The post A Decadent Food And Wine Retreat In South Australia’s Barossa Valley appeared first on Epicure & Culture.

Image via permanently scatterbrained

MEXICAN FOOD WAS THE FIRST to be named a UNESCO World Heritage Cuisine. And as the birthplace of many now traditional dishes, including mole poblano, chalupas, cemitas, and chiles en nogada, Puebla is a good place to get to know it.

If you’re visiting, here are 10 locations I’d recommend for tasting authentic Mexican food.

1. El Mural de los Poblanos

16 de Septiembre 506
222-242-0503
info@elmuraldelospoblanos.com

This fine-dining restaurant, located in the historic center of Puebla, preserves the cooking methods and recipes of original Mexican gastronomy, while enhancing flavors with more modern elements. The decor of El Mural de los Poblanos features murals by Antonio Alvarez Moran, a Poblano artist who’s been giving solo exhibitions since 1975 — they fit well with the original recipes, artisanal cooking techniques, and regional ingredients coming out of the kitchen of this 17th-century mansion.

For a Mexican delicacy, order the escamoles, ant larvae served with corn tortillas, salsa, and guacamole, or gusanos, which are worms served with the same. The chefs will fry them right in front of you.

I’d also recommend sampling some of the mescal, as there’s a wide selection from all different regions of Mexico. Don’t take it like a shot — sip it slowly and enjoy the flavor. You’ll be given orange slices and salt ground with dried caterpillars to cut the strength of the drink.

2. Meson Sacristía de la Compañía

6 sur 304 Callejón de los Sapos
222-232-4513
sacristia@mesones-sacristia.com

Located in the “Street of the Frogs” antiques area of the historic center, the restaurant resides in the courtyard of a colonial-style house that’s over 250 years old. Antiques decorate the space, and if you like what you see, you can buy the whole ensemble and take it home.

For more than 19 years, the kitchen has been commanded by Mrs. Lupita Escobar, a 60-year veteran of Mexican gastronomic preservation. Her menu includes recipes from nearby communities in an effort to keep traditional Mexican techniques and ingredients alive. Some examples include Flor de Calabaza — zucchini blossoms — which are incorporated into salads cultivated in Atlixco, and their Pollo en Chiltepin — chicken in Chiltepin sauce — which comes from Cuetzalan and Zacatlan.

Meson Sacristía also runs cooking classes. Under the direction of Chef Alonso Hernández, I got to make traditional mole poblano and learned some tricks to take the recipe back home. Tip #1: Use a blender to combine everything.

When dining, I’d recommend the sampler menu so you can try a bit of everything, including chalupas, moles, soup, a main course, dessert, and local wine or tequila. However, if you’re choosing just one, make it the signature dish of the city and the restaurant: mole poblano.

3. Fonda la Mexicana

Av 16 de Septiembre 706
222-232-6747

Near the city center, this place has more of a modest family atmosphere and serves huge portions. The extensive menu includes all the typical options, such as chalupas, mole poblano, and pipián verde, as well as seasonal dishes like chiles en nogada and mole de caderas, a goat and vegetable puree. They have a second location at General I Zaragoza 64.

4. La Chiquita

Paseo de San Francisco No. 4
222-234-8180

Also in the city center, La Chiquita’s gastronomic heritage dates back to 1896, and it’s one of the city’s only Mexican restaurants that still uses its original recipes. In fact, the current owner’s great-grandmother has been passing her secrets down the generations. Some traditional menu items you can find here include chalupas and mole poblano.

5. Cemitas del Carmen

21 Oriente No. 209, El Carmen

Find this food stall at the spacious indoor Mercado el Carmen. It sees good local traffic and is famous for its cemitas — the Puebla version of a torta, or Mexican sandwich. The extensive menu has varieties like breaded meat, cheese, chicken, spicy beef, ham, sausage, pork leg, and — my personal favorite — chipotle.

6. Molotes of the 5 Poniente

5 Poniente @ 16 de Septiembre

The molote, made with a mixture of corn paste and mashed potatoes, filled with meat stew, and fried in oil, is very popular in Puebla.

This is another street stall, but it’s been in the same spot for many years and has gained a loyal following. Different varieties of stuffed molotes can be ordered here, like tinga (tomatoes, chicken, chipotle, and sausage), goat or cow cheese with jalapeno slices, and epazote and mashed potatoes with onion.

7. Casa Reyna

Privada 2 Oriente 1007
222-232-2109
hotel@casareyna.com

The food here is good, but what makes it stand out are the locally made Talavera ceramics, paintings by Puebla artists, and old-world cabinets that adorn the 16th-century World Heritage building. All dishes are created using secret family recipes and are served with hot breads and jellies from the onsite orchard.

Tables are set with Talavera ceramics, a special, high-quality type of pottery dating back to the 17th century that can only be found in Puebla and its place of origin: Talavera de la Reina, Spain. The restaurant has a rotating menu that changes monthly.

8. Café Aguirre

Calle 5 de Mayo No. 4
222-242-0997

Expect to be warmly greeted at this cafe, which has been operating in the center since 1955. A highlight is their potent, 100% Mexican coffee, grown at around 4,000ft elevation. If you’re eating, I’d recommend the chilaquiles — deep-fried corn tortilla topped with red or green salsa, beans, shredded chicken, pork or beef, onions, and fresh cheese.

9. Mercado de Sabores

4 Poniente, between 11 and 13 Norte

Puebla’s “Market of Flavors” is clean and sleek. Its modern exterior facade is covered in a colorful tile mosaic featuring the names of local dishes written in abstract font. The inside continues the artful theme with metal sculptures hanging from the ceiling.

There are over 130 vendors selling authentic dishes like tacos árabes, pelonas, memelas, mole, pipián, cemitas, camotes, and more. Compared to all the restaurants in this list, you’ll have the widest variety of food options in the market — from small, independent joints to well-known fixtures like El Girofle and Tacos Tony.

10. Calle de los Ducles

Av. 6 Oriente, between Av. 5 de Mayo and Calle 4 Norte

In addition to all the rest, Puebla is famous for its candy and produces a lot of the country’s sweets.

A walk down Candy Street can help you get acquainted with the many varieties, like sugar-coated borrachitos — which contain alcohol and can get you drunk — camotes de frutas — soft, caramel-type candies — and the most famous local candy, the tortita de Santa Clara. Created by a nun in the Convent of Santa Clara, it’s made of sweet nougat and looks like a cookie.

This trip was made possible by the Mexico Tourism Board. Original published on Matador Network .

The post 10 Places To Eat Traditional In Puebla, Mexico appeared first on Epicure & Culture.

2,000+ year-old toga pin

When exploring the city of Melbourne, walking down the hidden lanes and bright arcades, you’ll notice many unique stores and boutique shops. One particularly interesting space is located in the Cathedral Arcade on the 2nd floor, Buttonmania. Owned by local button collector Kate Boulton, the shop has over four million buttons. And while she claims not to have the biggest collection in the country as wholesale manufacturers can produce more, she is certainly the largest boutique button shop in Australia.

The buttons come in all colors, shapes, sizes and styles, and simply seeing how many buttons can be kept by one person is fascinating. Her most notable button is one that is 2,000+ years old and was once used to pin togas in place (shown above). In her private collection, there are also some rare gems, like some 1956 Olympic games buttons and a purple paste diamente button from The Button Queen in London, whom she got to meet.

Kate Boulton wearing a mother of pearl necklace she made out of her buttons

It all started in the 1980s, when Boulton owned her own dressmaking business, a large part of which entailed constantly searching for the right button to complete a garment.

“I used to say ‘if I won tattslotto I would buy a button shop,’ she laughs. “I bought the first one in March 1995. I am still waiting for the Tattslotto.”

Today, Buttonmania is made up of a number of button-related businesses Boulton has purchased and combined over the last 18 years. Most of the buttons are from Europe, although she has many from other parts of the world, as well. And while Boulton loves being able to offer a wide array of high-quality buttons to her customers, she also enjoys collaborating with community members. In fact, a good proportion of her orders are from businesses, be it bridal boutiques, designers, dressmakers. Additionally, designers often send clients who need buttons for films. For example, many of the buttons for the movie “Australia” with Nicole Kidman feature Boulton’s buttons, specifically in the scene where she wears a ball gown. Some other movies you can view Boulton’s buttons include “Ghost Rider,” “Charlottes Web,” “Pacific” (the series) and “Miss Fisher’s Murder Mysteries” to name a few.

“You need to catch on real quick to their brief, as they are working to filming schedules, and often have to be sent interstate,” explains Boulton. “It is a good adrenaline rush, then to see the movie come out sometimes two to three years later. It gives you a different look when you sit down to see the finished film, and whether people realize all the trouble that goes into the fine details.”

So, what’s in store for the future of Buttonmania? Boulton simply hopes to continue to grow her collection and to help customers and clients with their buttoning needs. There is also the possibility of a button museum if the finances and logistics work out if her favor. To learn more about Buttonmania and Kate Boulton’s collection, visit buttonmania.com.au.

The post Interesting Locals: Meet Melbourne’s Most Prolific Button Collector appeared first on Epicure & Culture.

Do you have a favorite city for graffiti?

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Monet-inspired gardens in winter at Mirbeau Inn and Spa

“And these are our Monet-inspired gardens,” explains Jennifer, the receptionist at Mirbeau Inn and Spa, who is giving my travel companion, Aubrey, and I a tour. “The bridge, pond and flora are meant to transport you to the French countryside.”

Although it’s winter and the flowers are not in bloom, the scenery makes me feel instantly relaxed. The property is situated on 12 acres of forest parkland in the charming storybook village of Skaneateles, although you would have no idea you’re in New York while here. A wooden walking bridge curves over a frozen pond, surrounded by cottages, small pines and snow-covered ground. Now I understand why the hotel’s name is “Mirbeau,” which loosely translates to “reflected beauty.” I can only imagine how beautiful the setting is in the warmer months, filled with vibrant flora, whimsical weeping willows, floating lily pads and warm colors reminiscent of paintings done by renowned French impressionist Claude Monet.

The Wine Bar Library common space

Inside, we’re shown the fine dining restaurant, rustic bar area and two common spaces, one with high ceilings, tables, a fireplace and front-row views of the gardens and the other a more cozy room with a fireplace, couches and bookshelves. Jennifer continues the tour, bringing us down to the spa.

“All spa products from our Caudalie, Farmhouse Fresh and signature Mirbeau lines are all-natural and cruelty-free,” she explains, showing us their spa boutique. Adjacent on one side is a full gym as well as a Motion Studio where fitness classes like Zumba, aroma yoga, pilates and spin are held, while the other side has the entrance leading to the spa itself. While the entire setup is impressive, I stop in my tracks once I’m inside the women’s locker room.

“I think I need to get my bathing suit. Now,” I say, my voice pitched with excitement. “This is the most amazing spa I’ve ever seen.”

Jennifer smiles. “Let me get you your room keys.”

The Room

My cottage room is charming and comfortable, with pale yellow walls, blue curtains, a fireplace, a well-stocked snack and wet bar, sumptuous bedding and sweeping views of the courtyard. The real treat is the bathroom, which features a European tiled walk-in shower, over-sized French-style soaking tub, lavish bath and body products and double sinks. For a moment I entertain the thought of pouring myself a glass of local “The Seeker” Sauvignon Blanc (2011) from Marlborough and submerging myself in the hot waters of the stand alone tub; however, I remember the heavenly spa and quickly change into my bikini. While the room is wonderful, I can already tell I’ll be spending much time outside of it enjoying the inn and spa’s other luxurious amenities.

Spa Mirbeau’s Res & Relaxation Room

The Spa

Spa Mirbeau features a 14,000-square foot facility with 18 treatment room, a eucalyptus steam room, dry cedar sauna, a resting room with stone fireplace and heated foot massage pool, and an outdoor Aqua Terrace with a 15-person hot tub, waterfall, fireplace and wellness bar. I’ve opted to pamper myself with their “Wine and Honey Body Wrap,” one of their newest vinotherapy treatments. To open my pores before the experience I spend 15 minutes in the stream room, breathing in the minty scent of eucalyptus while feeling my pores open up and the toxins pour out of my body in beads of sweat. Although I have to keep standing under the cold shower to assuage the heat, I feel completely relaxed.

I take a quick dip in the hot tub, which makes me feel like I’m swimming (yes, it’s that big) in the wilderness with giant rock formations and a waterfall, before drying off and going to wait for my masseuse in the relaxation room. The soothing music is making me drift off to sleep when I hear my name being called.

“Ms. Festa?” calls an attractive blonde woman as I stand up. “Right this way.”

Her name is *Kate, and she leads me through a maze of treatment rooms to the one where I will be having my treatment. A fireplace gives the room a soft glow, while radiant heat flooring adds warmth to the space. Soothing spa music fills the air.

The treatment consists of a warm blend of wine and honey that nourishes the skin and protects against dehydration. It’s all natural — so much so you can eat it. While I don’t't taste it, my feelings are anything combining wine and honey must be delicious.

We begin with me taking off my clothes and laying under a towel on top of thin paper that will be the base of the wrap. Kate starts by having me sit up as she applies the thick, curative paste onto my back, as well as my legs, arms and stomach. From there, I’m wrapped in a warm cocoon, instantly relaxed and sleepy. She massages the areas of my body not wrapped, like my scalp, neck and shoulders, for about 15 minutes before I am unwrapped. While I thought I would feel sticky, I feel very clean, although I am instructed to rinse off in the shower before the treatment’s ending which includes a massage. I try not to doze off as her skilled hands unwind my muscles, but by the time the 50 minutes are up Kate has to gently wake me.

“Take your time getting up,” she instructs. “I’m going to bring you a glass of cucumber water.”

I don’t think I’ve ever felt so relaxed and detoxified in my life, and I mentally plan to ditch any plans I had made for the following day to spend more time enjoying the spa and fitness center. Now, however, it is time to explore Skaneateles.

Exploring The Area

During the spring, summer and fall guests can rent bicycles from Mirbeau free-of-charge; however, since it is winter Aubrey and I decide we’re better off taking a car over the snow and ice,  anyway. The charming village of Skaneateles is fill with tree-lined streets, antique shops, art galleries, artisanal eateries and 19th-century buildings reminiscent of Norman Rockwell paintings. You’ll also find Lake Skaneateles, a long, narrow and deep glacier-formed Finger Lake where people can enjoy fishing, boating, water sports and relaxing in the nearby park. Additionally, there are a variety of local hiking and biking spots, like Guppy Falls, Carpenters Falls, Baltimore Woods Nature Center, Carpenter Falls & the Bahar Nature Preserve and the Charlie Major Nature Trail.

After exploring the village and enjoying a scenic one-mile trek to Guppy Falls, Aubrey and I head to Anyela’s Vineyards for a taste of the area. For $3 we’re allowed to choose five tastings from the menu, as well as enjoy a complimentary sampling of their 2011 Rose of Pinot Noir, an unusually dry rose with flavors of cherry, raspberry and stawberry and a spicy finish.

While there are many excellent vineyards and wineries in the Finger Lakes, the family-owned Anyela’s is different as they protect their vines from the cold even after the fall harvest, removing them one-by-one from the trellises and burying them to insulate the fruit buds. This process allows for ripe fruits and flavorful wines.

I start with their 2011 Dry Riseling, which has a dry fruit flavor and crisp finish, before moving on to a blend unique to their vineyard, the Cuvee Blanc.

“Even if other vineyards tried to recreate out Cuvee Blanc it would still be different,” explains John*, our wine tasting guide. “They may get something similar, but the percentages of the different wines in the blend will always be different.”

The wine features a unique blend of Riesling, Chardonnay, Pinot Gris and Cayuga White that has a distinct citrus quality, as well as a smooth finish that lingers on the palate. I haven’t even finished the tasting before I’ve decided to buy a bottle, as I can picture this pairing well with my favorite meal of baked chicken and sauteed spinach.

Moving on, John pours — generously, I might add — a tasting of their 2010 Noiret. This is their third vintage of the unusual grape, with the wine offering flavors of berries, pepper and distinct spice. While I wouldn’t purchase this as an everyday drinking wine, it would pair well with a Thai meal or if you’re simply craving something deliciously strange. The next wine we sample is also flavored with berries and spice, a 2009 Overlay Verse 5. A blend of 47% Cabernet Franc, 29% Pinot Noir and 24% Cabernet Sauvignon, it’s unique to the vineyard and a bit more drinkable than the previous wine with a medium body without a bite.

We finish the tasting with their 2011 Minuet, a blended rose featuring bright cherry, raspberry and floral notes that’s delicious and a slightly sweet. Despite the fact we’re taking part in a wine pairing dinner tonight we purchase the Minuet and the Cuvee, eager to continue exploring the Finger Lakes through our palates.

French Steakhouse

Dining

For dinner, Aubrey and I dine at Mireabu Inn and Spa’s onsite French Steakhouse. We opt for a three-course wine pairing dinner, which will showcase both American and French wines as well as French Country-style dishes made with local ingredients. Although Aubrey and I are just friends, we can’t help but feel as though we’re on a romantic date. As with many of the spaces at Mirbeau we’re treated to a front-row view of the courtyard, while accents like pristine white table clothes, whimsically-draped curtains, candlelit chandeliers and comfortable seats crafted with rich mahogany create a relaxed fine dining vibe.

The menu changes often so the restaurant can use the freshest available ingredients, although they always feature healthy spa-inspired creations as well as tableside presentations like the filleting of a whole fish and the carving of a Cowboy steak for two. Tonight there are a range of unusual but delicious-sounding options, for example, a “Monkfish Osso Buco”; a risotto crafted from cauliflower and served with baby carrots and local chou vert kale; and an Alsatian-inspired strudel featuring asparagus , Gruyere and toasted walnuts baked in phyllo dough and drizzled with Gorgonzola cream.

Amuse bouche

We place our orders and tell the sommelier about our wine preferences before a young man carrying a selection of hearty breads comes over.

“Tonight we have a honey curry butter with your choice of ciabatta or garlic knot bread.”

We’re also brought an amuse bouche, a “seafood sausage” that contains lobster, egg white, scallops, shrimp and cream melted into a sausage form. The texture is velvety, with a distinct and delightful shellfish taste.

Lapin Roti

The first course I have selected is the “Lapin Roti,” a roasted tenderloin of rabbit wrapped in Serrano ham and grilled. On the side of the protein-rich starter are endive leaves topped with house bacon “lardons” and mustard vinaigrette. Our sommelier pairs the dish with a 2011 Dr. Frank Semi Dry Riesling, which features flavors of apple blossom and citrus. The citrus of the wine complements the complex flavors of the rabbit, ham and bacon, while a slight sweetness offsets the smokiness of the dish.

Homard a la Colonial

While I already feel satisfied, my palate is once again excited when the main course is brought out. I’ve selected the “Homard a la Colonial,” which features a wok-roasted half-pound lobster with shrimp, scallop and langoustines in a spicy-sweet Thai red curry sauce. On the side is a tuft of Jasmine rice as well as a spoonful of cilantro whipped cream and scallions. The sommelier has decided to pair this dish with a 2010 Michael David ‘Petite Petit,” a substantial, dense and full bodied wine from the Lodi Wine Region in California. While most people often choose whites when eating seafood, this particular varietal features a blend of 85% Petite Sirah and 15% Petit Verdot that goes well with the curry sauce. While the wine coats the palate with flavors of black fruit and vanilla, it features enough richness and backbone to standup to the intense flavors of the curry sauce and succulent lobster.

Cheese platter

Before dessert, we indulge with a decadent cheese course featuring Moody Blue, a rich, creamy blue smoked over fruit wood; Drunken Goat, a semi-firm pasteurized goat cured in Cabernet; and Parmesan Reggiano, a hard granular cheese made from raw cow’s milk. To help enhance the experience, the delectable cheeses are served with honey comb, tomato onion jam, a 30-year aged balsamic and a variety of breads and crisps. Each offering has its own distinct texture and taste, from the crumbly, tangy blue to the more sweet and delicate goat. The highlight of the experience is drizzling the balsamic onto each morsel, so rich and sweet it could be used on ice cream.

Finally, it’s time for dessert. Luckily, I’ve opted for something light yet satisfying, a chocolate mousse made with caillebaut 65% dark chocolate and hazelnut brittle. This course is paired with something I’d never heard of, a Terra d’Oro Zinfandel Port. While not as heavy or sweet as a typical port, the wine gives the perfect finish with flavors of raisins, sugared dates, chocolate, caramel and a hint of orange peel. It was made to be enjoyed with chocolate, and as I indulge in a chocolate mousse and hard chocolate bowl, I’m in heaven.

We opt for a nightcap, whiskey on the rocks, and sit back to take in the view. Even at night it’s beautiful, the crystal ice glistening in the dark. As has happened many times this day, I forget that I am not in the French countryside, but am instead in the same state most associate with honking taxi cabs, bustling streets and stressed locals. At Mirbeau Inn and Spa you don’t even have to leave the property to travel the world, escape from your worries and experience the finer things in life.

*Name has been changed

The post Vinotherapy, Dark Chocolate And Monet-Inspired Gardens: A French Countryside Getaway In New York appeared first on Epicure & Culture.

Traveling is a fun and exciting activity. Other than seeing the places, we also get to know the people and their cultures, food, way of life and other things that can broaden our world view and push us to new horizons. That being said, there are certain incidents when several factors in traveling are causing us headaches such as lost baggage, awry reservations and many other things. A wise traveler will know how to deal with these—and in all probability has already fixed them even before he/she come. To become a savvy traveler, here are some of the tips to have a stress-free travel.

Book Your Hotel Early, Then Verify It

Some travelers who have a knack for spontaneity don’t book their accommodations; they look for it when they arrive at their destinations. But if you are not that experienced or just cannot risk being homeless in a holiday tourist rush, then you really have to make reservations as early as a month in advance. Whether you’re going to book at ARIA or the shanty homesteads on an unchartered Pacific island, you have to book your accommodations early. Three days before your flight to your destination, you should also verify your booking to avoid any issues with lost reservations.

Pack Light

The reason why many bags are lost in the limbo of airport carousels is because people are carrying more than they need. In the film Up in the Air, the protagonist played by George Clooney advised his associate to travel in style by getting a sturdy stroller—and packing only the things she needs. To pack lightly, you have to let go of many things: towels, shampoo and conditioner combos, travel pillows, and so much more. Study your backpack, and learn its advantages and limitations. From there, you can pack your things as if you’re clearing lanes in Tetris. There is an art to traveling, and it takes thousands of miles of travel to master it.

Research, Then Make An Itinerary

Whether you’re in a destination for a business trip or vacation, you can never underestimate the power of well-researched itineraries. Start by looking up places like the budget restaurants, tourist attractions, police stations and your nation’s embassy. From there, figure out the number of hours you have to spend in a certain place and budget needed. By doing this, you can make your travel seamless. While you have to make an itinerary whenever you’re going somewhere, that doesn’t mean you have to follow every single detail of it. Learn how to become spontaneous sometimes and while also being organized and prepared and you’ll experiences some of the best vacations you’ve ever had.

*The above post was written by guest contributor Vivian Garrett

The post How To Avoid The Usual Stress Factors Of Traveling appeared first on Epicure & Culture.

“Will you be joining us for breakfast?” asks Katja, a pleasant smile on her face.

As scents of Vermont maple syrup, sizzling bacon and fluffy pancakes fill my nostrils, I don’t need to think about the answer.

Katja Matthews is the General Manager of Windham Hill Inn, a charming hotel wonderfully located in the middle of nowhere. My cell phone doesn’t work for miles, and connecting to Wi-Fi is impossible. Being disconnected, however, only gives me more time to enjoy the wealth of onsite hiking trails, farm-to-table dining and a world class wine program.

Farm-to-Table

I sit down and a waitress pours me a steaming cup of green tea. While there is plenty to enjoy on the three-course breakfast menu — from pancakes to French toast to eggs anyway you’d like — my eyes are immediately drawn to the Windham Omelet. Stuffed with melted Vermont feta, plump mushrooms and fresh spinach and served with golden potatoes, thick slices of whole grain bread, various homemade chutneys and succulent sausages, the meal offers an array of flavors, while the homemade granola and Greek yogurt gives me a healthy dessert-like ending.

Slowly savoring each bite, I realize I’ve never really had spinach or potatoes before, not like this anyway. After asking Executive Chef Graham Gill about the ingredients on the menu, I learn I really am getting some local flavor. While the maple syrup I had dipped my toast in comes directly from a farmer in Townshend, the cheese in my omelet has come from the nearby Taylor Farm.

“Using local produce allows us to get the freshest products to use on our menu,” explains Chef Gill. “We know from which farms the produce is coming from and they are mostly organic which is what our customer is looking for. We stay seasonal with the ingredients and can change the menu as needed.”

Around noon each day, Chef Gill heads to the garden to pick out produce for dinner. I decide to go for a quick hike and get back in time to join him. Today a flavorful “Vegetable Wellington,” the vegetarian version of the traditional beef fare, as well as a thick gazpacho soup are on the menu. We pick red peppers, tomatoes, basil, butternut squash and garlic cloves before heading into the kitchen, where I watch him work his culinary magic. As he washes, chops, slices and dices without taking a breath, I watch in amazement as he transforms an array of vegetables and spices into a hearty, country-inspired meal. It is farm-to-table at its finest.

Pastries from Amy’s Bakery Arts Cafe

Southern Vermont

While Windham Hill’s approach to dining is commendable, it’s also a representation of the larger area.

“Many local restaurants are doing this,” explains Chef Gill. “Everyone tries to support one another and the local economy.”

While it’s rare to find inns with the flawless charm and moral ideology Windham Hill Inn lives by, “going local” is the unofficial slogan of southern Vermont. In fact, the abundance of artisanal chefs, winemakers, brewers, farmers, craftsman and artists often remind people of the American version of Tuscany, a region of old-world charm, fresh food and simplicity that enhances the locals’ way of life. At any restaurant or cafe, it’s almost guaranteed that you’re eating ingredients from community farmers.

Heading from the inn to the nearest “bustling” town of Brattleboro — which is only 32.4 square miles in size –  I immediately know this is a town where people look out for their neighbors. Signs asking patrons to go local are posted on every storefront. Instead of quick production, the people here are concerned with health and quality, allowing you to immerse yourself in a world of small boutiques, artisanal cafes and colorful art galleries.

Businesses here don’t outsource; if they need something they buy it from another company in southern Vermont. At Amy’s Bakery Arts Cafe visitors can enjoy fine pastries and artisanal breads and coffees, while Whetstone Station Restaurant and Brewery  operates under a farm-to-table philosophy. Moreover, Altiplano sells eco-friendly and fair-trade clothing, gifts and accessories, Verde for Garden & Home  sells outdoor furniture made from recyclables and Borter’s Jewelry Studio uses Vermont gemstones to create handmade pieces. Even the world-famous Grafton Village Cheese Company, in nearby Grafton, sources the dairy for their raw milk cheeses from small family farms.

Wine dinner. Image via dudek25.

Wine Pairing

Back at Winham Hill Inn for the evening, I decide to take advantage of their wine pairing dinner. With about 5,000 bottles of wine on hand for guests, Windham Hill takes the time to locally source quality wines, as well as a variety of international varietals. Some wines date back to the 1960s, and others are still being aged in their expansive cellar. Five times each year, the property works with winemakers and winery owners to organize tastings and educate its guests about wine.

Dan Pisarczyk, the inn’s restaurant manager and wine director, pours me a Rhone Blend of Edmunds St. John “Rocks and Gravel” from California, 2005. I don’t take a hasty swig as I normally would. Instead, I sip it slowly, letting it takeover my palate and senses.

I relax and reflect on how this trip has taught me to appreciate quality, carefully selected products. And as I eat the paired Vermont venison loin with herb spaetzle, I smile knowing I’m dining on something locally-sourced and thoughtfully prepared.

*This article was originally published on The Culture-Ist

The post Rich Maple Syrup, Raw Milk Cheese And Farm-To-Table Dining: Exploring The Epicurious Side Of Vermont appeared first on Epicure & Culture.

Sushi platter at Taxi Dining Room

Greenvale pork loin, milk braised belly, caramelized apple and ramen. Snapper sashimi with miso crumble and wasabi dressing. Crispy duck with pumpkin daikon salad and five spice caramel.

It’s my first night in Australia and I’m reading the menu at Taxi Dining Room in Melbourne. While everything sounds delicious, I’m the type of traveler who likes to dive into local culture right away, and that includes with food.

“I love Asian food, but maybe tomorrow night we can go someplace more Australian for dinner,” I suggest to my local friend, Jennifer.

She looks confused. “What do you mean?”

“You know, someplace where I can order typical Australian cuisine, like…” I stop, realizing I can’t actually name a traditional Australian dish. “What’s a typical Australian meal?”

She replies. “Asian. Italian. BBQ. African. French. Actually, Mexican is really popular in Melbourne right now.”

Now I’m confused. How can Mexican or Italian be quintessential Australian cuisine? When Jennifer is unable to name a single dish aside for “coffee” and “Maybe meat pies? But that’s actually English,” my inner epicure becomes extremely curious. And that’s when my mission is born. During my two weeks traveling through Australia, I vow to find the country’s quintessential dish, no matter what it takes.

The frog was an essential part of the Aboriginal diet. Image via lisamarris.

The Aboriginals

If we trace the history of Australia’s culinary roots, we start with the Aboriginals. These are the indigenous people of Australia, who lived off the land as hunters and gatherers. There was a deep respect for the land, and these people used its resources wisely to create nutritious meals without depleting the native foods. While the exact cuisine was dependent on the region where the Aboriginal clan lived, typical animals hunted by men were kangaroo, wallaby, echidna, turtle, snake, frog or bird, while women gathered plants like figs, Lemon Aspen, eucalyptus, quandong and wattle. Certain insects like grubs also provided necessary fat.

European Colonization

The Aboriginal way of life changed in the 18th century when the Europeans colonized Australia. When settlers came with Captain James Cook in the 1770s they did not understand the native diet. While they enjoyed certain birds, animals like sheep, rabbit, deer and cow as well as crops like flour and drinks like rum were introduced to create a diet that was more familiar to them. While the Europeans used Australia at first as a place to send convicts, in 1793 free settlers also began making their way to live in Australia. These introductions completely changed the way of life, as well as the diet, that had been previously established in the country.

European Evacuation After WWII

Unfortunately, wars displace people. However, the interesting thing when this happens is people bring with them their unique cultures, art, music and of course, food. While the migration of Europeans after WWII ended in 1945, often the people who were displaced were very poor, so they became self sufficient when they arrived.

“The planted their own fruit and vegetables. Australia has plenty of land and ‘new’ Australians had large blocks of land around their houses,” explains John Baldwin of Barossa Daimler Tours. “Often they brought out to Australia, seeds, or root stock and they planted grape vines for not only table and wine but also as shade and shelter from the hot sun.”

Coriander. Image via Spiders.

The Vietnam War

John helps me flesh out the country’s history a bit more to find clues. While the Chinese and Japanese began moving to Australia for work and various gold rushes in the 1800s, the major Asian migration occurred after the Vietnam War ended in 1975 in the form of Vietnamese, Laos and Cambodian political refugees. Although they were now in a different country, they were able to savor a little piece of home by introducing ingredients they grew up with, particularly lemon grass, palm sugar, chili and coriander. This was the beginning of what started an Asian influence in Australia, whose population holds about 2.4 million Asian ancestral citizens.

More Wars, More Migration

The culinary influence on Australia from cultures all over the world continued due to war. While the end of the Gulf War and Desert Storm brought cumin, saffron, almonds, honey, yogurt and spices from displaced Kuwaitis, African conflicts and famine in between 1988 and 2000, as well as lack of opportunities brought natives of Mogadishu, Sedan, Ethiopia and South Africa. These people brought with them epicurious offerings like goat, slow cooked braises and one pot specials. And most recently, displaced Afghanis after the U.S. War On Terror left for Pakistan and then continued Australia, bringing with them cumin, tumeric, garam masala, slow cooked braises and curries.

Slowly over time, these foreign ingredients and cooking methods have become almost native.

Wine grapes. Image via philly_j.

Maybe It’s A Quintessential Drink?

While looking back on the historical influences of Australian cuisine was interesting, it still wasn’t giving me the answer I was looking for. Instead of giving up, I decided to take a new approach and look toward Australia’s liquid offerings.

In the late 1700s winemakers began planting grapes. Today, we can find the world’s oldest vines in South Australia’s Barossa Valley from the mid-1800s. Because the area was never hit by disease the way Europe was, these old vines never died, while other countries were forced to start over. Moreover, because of Australia’s large size they are able to plant every major variety of wine in a range of styles.

“We have little government restrictions, unlike Europe, so the winemaking fraternity could experiment,” explains Baldwin. “New techniques resulted from those trials, now being used all around the world.”

One good example of this is controlling the ferment, which gives off a by-product of heat and carbon dioxide. Too much heat is not a good thing, therefore a slow cool ferment is essential. While this is something well worth exploring in terms of Australia’s epicurious innovation, it is important to note the country does not have any native grape varieties suitable for winemaking, and therefore have had their grapes imported from Europe.

Shrimp on the barbie. Image via matthewh.

Shrimp On The Barbie?

While I had so far focused on facts, there are certain foods foreigners associate with Australia that just aren’t true. For example, the iconic expression portraying an Aussie meal is, “Throw some shrimp on the barbie.” Say that to any local in Australia and you’ll get laughed at.

“What’s shrimp on the barbie?” is the common reply I receive when asking about this phrase. In reality, Australians don’t use the word “shrimp,” but instead call these shellfish delicacies “prawns.” The misconception comes from a TV commercial starring Paul Hogan that ran in the late 80’s and was sponsored by the Australian Tourism Commission. The actual quote was “I’ll slip an extra shrimp on the barbie for you,” with the word “shrimp” only being used so U.S. viewers would understand what was being said.

Crossing shrimp on the barbie off my list of possible quintessential foods, I continue my quest.

Today

I begin my quest in Melbourne. Even after the evening at Taxi Dining Room, it is evident this city features a melting pot of cuisines. Some locals note the city’s up-and-coming Mex Mex scene, a popping up of traditional Mexican restaurants without an Texan influences. Others, however, speak of the city’s unmatched coffee.

Then, there are those I meet along my journey who bring up the Italian influence over Australian cuisine, like Murray Johnson of Real Melbourne Bike Tours. According to Johnson, Nino Borsari, a gold medal cyclist who arrived in Melbourne in 1939, is often thought of as the founder of Little Italy in the city. Once he started his Italian restaurant, others began popping up all over Lygon Street, then all over the city and beyond.

“The influence is all over Australia,” explains Johnson. “Even non-Italian restaurants often have Italian dishes like lasagnas, pastas and veal parmigiano. Philosophically there’s a move toward organic or home-grown vegetables, another Italian influence.”

By this point, I am getting the feeling Australia doesn’t really have a native dish, but instead is a melting pot of cultures. Along with the heavy Italian influence, celebrity chef Rick Stein has made tapas and Spanish food popular in the country. Moreover, the close location of Australia to Asia has kept the influence of Vietnamese, Chinese, Korean and Thai strong. And if you look to Australian top chefs for your answer, you’ll often notice a classic-French trained style.

When I arrive in South Australia I meet Jason Miller of the wine and food tour company Rich + Lingering, who agrees the influences over Australian cuisine stem from everywhere from northern Africa to Poland to Germany to Asia. However, he believes that instead of looking to a quintessential type of food, you need to look at the approach.

“We have borrowed from everyone – ingredients, which are now grown locally, methods of cooking, and styles. Then amalgamated them into our own with no rules to constrain us, and they are enjoyed in a very relaxed way with friends and family, and typically outdoors,” explains Miller.

This I know is true. The “Aussie BBQ” is iconic of the country and culture, serving up Italian sausages, Asian-marinated prawns – NOT shrimp on the barbie – and salads from all over the globe. It’s a very local idea with an international twist.

Raw gnocchi. Image via emospada.

At the end of my trip I find myself sitting at Vintners Bar & Grill in the Barossa Valley, picking at hummus & herb yogurt spring rolls, tuna sashimi with wasabi mayo and a plate of house made potato gnocchi with pecorino and artichoke. Looking over my notes again in frustration, I think about how I’m eating a blend of Italian, Asian and Middle Eastern cuisine; however, all the ingredients are locally-sourced. Maybe that’s the key?

Just when I’m about to write down “meat pies” and call it a day, the intercontinental meal in front of me gives me the answer. The blend of cuisines being true to themselves is a mirror of Australian history, with each ethnicity working to preserve its own culture in Australia.

As John Baldwin clarifies, “Modern Australian cuisine, often called ‘modoz,’ refers to the melting pot and East-meets-West philosophy. Australians are open minded about incorporating new cuisines.”

Original, regional foods are authentically Australian. The focus is high quality food in a relaxed, enjoyable atmosphere. While there may not be a quintessential Australian dish, there certainly is a definitive food philosophy that reflects the country’s dynamic roots.

I slap my notes face down on the table, flabbergasted. “So basically I’ve been eating quintessential Australian cuisine the entire time, as I was trying so hard to find it?”

John smiles. “Basically.”

In essence, the quintessential Australian dish is every dish.

Featured image via CMSeter

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