Eastern Europe Sparkling Wline

How to explore eastern Europe's sparkling wine culture

By Patti Morrow, Epicure & Culture Contributor

I’m not much of a wine drinker; that is, unless it has bubbles.

You’re probably thinking expensive champagne, right? Champagne is the most well-known bubbly and always a good choice; however, there’s more to sparkling wine than just Champagne. There’s cava from Spain, Prosecco from Italy and a whole new popularity of fizzy beverages cropping up in less familiar European countries.

On my recent journey through Central and Eastern Europe, I was fortunate to be hosted by JayWay Travel, a tour agency specializing in finding local wineries that run the gamut from award-winning to off-the-beaten-path. This meant we were able to sample a good selection of Eastern European wine.

Wines from Central and Eastern Europe are increasingly modern and consumer-friendly in style. Many offer a wide range of deliciously crafted and varietal wines at bargain prices, and sparkling wines are increasing their market share.

Did you know that sparkling #wines are becoming popular throughout Eastern #Europe? Here's where to find the best sips! Click To Tweet

The Process

While the terrain, climate and culture may differ slightly throughout Central and Eastern Europe, there is one thing that many of the sparkling wine producers have in common; they employ the traditional méthode champenoise, which requires a second fermentation in the bottle.

eastern european wine at Cramele Halewood
Our group of Americans and Europeans enjoying the sparking rose at Cramele Halewood

After the first fermentation in the barrel, a syrupy mixture of sugar and yeast called tirage is added to the still wine. It is then bottled with a metallic stopper. The pressure produces carbon dioxide, which creates the bubbles or “sparkle” when the bottle is opened.

In the final stage, unappealing-looking remnant yeast, called lees, is removed by turning the bottles over and over.  Some Eastern European wine operations still perform this process manually, while others have automated.

1. Romania

Romania is the sixth-largest wine producer in the E.U., but despite the long history, it has only come to recognition after shaking loose from its communist occupation. Great success has come from expanded attention on their unique native grapes and improving quality through upgraded technology.

The Romanian mountain climate is perfect for the second fermentation of white and rose sparkling wines, passively-cooled in both above and underground cellars.

Viniculture: Cramele Halewood

Cramele Halewood in Transylvania, established in 1982, exclusively produces its own delicious sparkling brut wine in Romania’s oldest sparkling wine cellar. Rhein Extra is produced here, the oldest Romanian brand of sparkling wine and the most famous between the two world wars.

eastern european wine cellar at Cramele Halewood
The sparkling wine cellar at Cramele Halewood

True to their traditional method, after the second fermentation, the bottles are kept in the horizontal position for nine months.  Then, twice a day for two months, the bottles are turned 45 degrees, all by hand, and stored at a constant cool temperature.  In eight hours, one person can turn approximately 50,000 bottles.

At this Romanian #winery, bottles are rotated by hand during the fermentation process. One person can turn 50,000 bottles per day! #Romania Click To Tweet

In 2006, Cramele Halewood once again became the official Supplier to the Royal House of Romania, after having this honor between 1920 and 1947.

eastern european wine Rhein Extra
Cramele Halwood’s delicious Rhein Extra in the wine tasting courtyard.

The countryside grounds provide a lovely natural backdrop for wine pairings and tastings.  Halewood has a very mom-and-pop feel to it — it’s small and personal, and in truth, it was my favorite Eastern European wine experience.

Tourism: Transylvania

Enchanting town plazas that date back to medieval times, rolling hills as far as the eye can see, castles cloaked in the mystery of Count Dracula, craggy mountain vistas and a seemingly infinite array of fortresses and churches. Transylvania’s natural beauty and cultural diversity is captivating.

Sighisoara is widely considered one of the most beautiful and best-preserved medieval towns in Europe. The unspoiled 16th century mix of hilly cobbled streets, turrets, towers and town squares has been compared to the magical ambiance of Old Prague or Vienna.

eastern european wine in Romania
Scenic Brasov is one of Romania’s most-visited cities.

Framed by the Carpathian Mountains, Brasov is one of the most visited cities in Romania.  Founded by the Teutonic Knights in 1211, it’s a mix of colorful gothic, baroque and renaissance architecture, with a cobblestone square and lively cafes.

Built in the 12th century by Saxons, Sibiu’s pristine old town is one of the prettiest in Romania. It’s a pedestrian city, with an imposing medieval wall, well-preserved towers, narrow streets, gabled 17th century buildings, the infamous Liar’s Bridge and two church-dominated squares.

2. Moldova

This land-locked country is still mostly unfamiliar to the U.S. — both in tourism and in viniculture.  Once one of Russia’s largest wine suppliers, Moldova has increased its market share in other parts of Europe and has been targeting the Asian and U.S. markets to the extent that now most of its excellent wine is exported.

Viniculture: Cricova

eastern european wine Cricova vineyards
Strolling the Cricova vineyards.

Founded in 1952, one of Moldova’s dominant operations is the Cricova vineyards and winery.  Overland are acres and acres of vineyards and endless panoramic views.

But the highlight of Cricova is hopping in one of the trolley cars and being whisked through the frigid underground shafts. Miles of paths crisscross under Cricova in a labyrinth of tunnels. Some lead to storage cellars containing old and valuable wines, including Hermann Göring’s collection of rare wines won by the USSR as war reparations after World War II. Be sure to bring a warm coat for this excursion, no matter what time of year!

eastern european wine Cricova cellars
Dusty bottles line the aged Cricova cellars.

Cricova claims to be the first winery in Moldova to make sparkling wine, as it was prepared by monk winemaker Pierre Perignon in 1986.

eastern european wine sparkling samples
I traded my red and white wine samples for my friends’ sparklings!

The underground metropolis at Cricova also contains the bottling facilities, as well as multiple tasting rooms, each a different size and décor to accommodate a variety of visitors.

#Moldova may be one of the least-visited countries in Europe but it's a destination #wine lovers should not miss! Click To Tweet

Tourism: Chișinău

Moldova is one of the least-visited countries in Europe, but on a continent suffering from over-exploration, the world is beginning to submit to the allure of this culturally unique and affordable off-the-grid destination. Moldova has a rich history dating back to discovery of 1.2 million year old Paleolithic era Oldowan flint tools and Middle Age influencers such as the Romans, Huns and Mongols.

eastern european wine Chisinau
Chișinău’s triumphal arch.

Chișinău, the lively capital, offers tourists a plethora of sites, from the city’s many green spaces, government squares and churches, to more offbeat opportunities like the former KGB headquarters or cannabis coffee cafés.

3. Ukraine

Similar to Moldova, Ukraine originally made its mark as one of the Soviet Union’s top wine suppliers. The Soviet name for imported sparkling wine was Sovetskoye Shampanskoye, or Soviet Champagne, and most of it was sweet. Ukraine is also targeting new sales in the U.S. and Asia.

Viniculture: Shabo

eastern european wine Shabo vineyards
The vineyards at Shabo.

Wine Culture Center Shabo is not your ordinary Eastern European wine experience. Just a short drive from Odessa’s city center, the 2.5 hour comprehensive tour is more like Disneyland for wine lovers. The slick automated operation starts with a walk past the vineyards, onto the wine-making and storing process, past modern sculptures, fountains and underground exhibits.

There is an elaborate “walk-through-time” museum complete with mannequins depicting their 200-year-old Swiss heritage from the first grape harvest in the area to current times, to a company promotional film.

eastern european wine Shabo storage facilities
One of Shabo’s slick storage facilities.

At the end of the tour, there’s an opportunity to taste some of the Shabo wines in their sleek, modern bar/tasting room.  Tasters are offered sips of red, white and sparkling wine.

eastern european wine Shabo tasting room
The glitzy tasting room at Shabo.

And lastly, before exiting the glittery operation, visitors must go through the ubiquitous company store where they have an opportunity to purchase wine and branded souvenirs.

Tourism: Odessa

Odessa is a port city on the Black Sea, founded in 1794 by the Russian empress Catherine the Great. Its reputation as the summer capital of Ukraine draws in visitors who are eager to stroll around the city’s tree-lined “Old Town” taking in the pastel neoclassical architecture, historical monuments, delicious cuisine and seaside resorts.

eastern european wine Odessa
The Odessa Opera and Ballet Theater in the Old Town.

There’s much to explore in Odessa, including the opulent opera house, the famous Potemkin Stairs, the underground catacombs used by the partisan army to hide from the Nazis, chic and frenetic Arcadia Beach and the 13th century Akkerman Fortress.

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Disclosure:  The author was honored to be the guest of JayWay Travel during her stay in Eastern Europe, but as always, the opinions, reviews and experiences are her own.

 

How to explore eastern Europe's sparkling wine culture

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Patti Morrow is the founder and editor of Luggage and Lipstick – a travel blog for baby boomer women adventurers, author of the book Girls Go Solo: Tips for Women Traveling Alone, and freelance travel writer with bylines in over 30 publications, including The Huffington Post, The Washington Post, International Living Magazine, Travel Girl, CNN iReport, Epicure & Culture, and Ladies Home Journal.  She has traveled throughout most of the USA and around 50 countries and islands abroad, and was recently name by TripAdvisor as one of the “20 Baby Boomer Travel Bloggers Having More Fun Than Millennials.”

Patti Morrow

Patti Morrow is the founder and editor of Luggage and Lipstick – a travel blog for baby boomer women adventurers, author of the book Girls Go Solo: Tips for Women Traveling Alone, and freelance travel writer with bylines in over 30 publications, including The Huffington Post, The Washington Post, International Living Magazine, Travel Girl, CNN iReport, Epicure & Culture, and Ladies Home Journal.  She has traveled throughout most of the USA and around 50 countries and islands abroad, and was recently name by TripAdvisor as one of the “20 Baby Boomer Travel Bloggers Having More Fun Than Millennials.”

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1 Comment

  1. What an awesome trip that was, Patti, I’ll never forget it! Seeing all these unique places in Romania and Moldova with you guys was a treat 🙂 Hope you’re having enough (prosecco) bubbles wherever you are!

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