The smell of trofie pasta topped with basil pesto kisses the Mediterranean air. Delizioso! The fast chit-chat of the local Italians tickles your ear. Ciao, Ciao! The brightly colored pastel houses cling to the cliffs, overlooking the deep, blue sparkling sea. Bellissima!
This is the land of the Cinque Terre. Your taste buds will be spoiled by the Ligurian cuisine and wine in this rugged stretch of coast. But it’s the rich landscape that will steal a piece of your heart and beg you to return.
High above the villages, steep trails run along the coast and connect the towns of Monterosso al Mare, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola, and Riomaggiore. Trekking into the hills, you meander through vineyards and olive groves. Stop at the highest point and admire the glistening Mediterranean Sea down below, terraced vineyards, dry stone walls, charming houses, and lemon trees.
Hiking in the Cinque Terre, Italy, is an incredible experience. But you can make it even more memorable by adding an unusual twist.
Trekking In Your Bathing Suit
At my Cinque Terre hostel, I make some new friends. While they’ve just arrived, I’ve been there a few days and have a decent sense of the area. When they mention wanting to hike, I offer to be their guide—though I plan to add a surprise to the experience.
I tell them to wear bathing suits and bring a photo ID and some Euros. We hike from Levanto to Monterosso, following a steep path weaving through vineyards and olive trees. As we approach the beach town, the signature orange umbrellas zigzag across the crowded sand, and our feet speed up.
The blue sea calls our names. Once there, we grab a locker, stash our hiking clothes, and rent paddleboards. It’s the perfect way to relax after a rigorous hike.
Hopping on our boards, we find our balance and paddle past swimmers. It’s just us and the ocean, and it feels exhilarating. We stop to lie on our boards and bask in the warm Riviera sunshine.
With some energy left, we paddle toward the next town, Vernazza. On the way, we find a cascade spilling fresh water from the mountains above. We dock on a giant rock and swim through a small lagoon.
Life couldn’t be any better than this moment, in this place.
Trekking With Locals
Italians talk with their hands (thank goodness they do!), which I discover on a solo hike from Manarola to Corniglia. Somewhere along the trail, I lose my way and end up on a busy road. I stop for a drink, and loneliness sinks in as I realize I’m utterly lost and alone.
Back on the trail, I spot an older man with trekking poles and a backpack. I decide to follow him, and he eventually leads me back to the correct path. He turns suddenly and starts speaking to me—rapid-fire Italian.
I try to explain in English and basic Italian that I don’t understand. But he continues, adding gestures to help me comprehend. And surprisingly, it works.
Combining my limited Italian with his charades, I begin to piece together his story. I learn his father was a famous artist in Italy. He pulls out his iPhone and shows me photos of large men and animals reflecting Italian peasantry.
Their eyes are intensely expressive—angry, lonely, yet gentle. He proudly tells me he runs a foundation in his father’s name. His father’s exhibitions now travel the world.
When the conversation turns to me, I tell him I’m a teacher. He smiles and throws his arm around my shoulders. “My husband is also a teacher!” he beams, then quickly corrects himself: “I mean my wife, Patrizia.”
We both laugh at the slip. At a panoramic viewpoint, we look out over Corniglia jutting into the sea. He asks someone to take our picture, then walks me to the edge and points out Manarola on the other side.
He shares that he swims between the two villages for fun. My admiration grows. We’ve spoken entirely in Italian, and I’ve never felt more connected.
He invites me to dinner at his home. I smile and explain I have dinner plans with someone special. His eyes light up as he tells me to order the Sciacchetrà at the end of my meal.
“This is a special wine of the Cinque Terre,” he says, “and it should be shared with someone just as special. Buona fortuna.” Good luck.
With a softness in his voice, he says he is a lucky man. He’s been in love with his wife Patrizia for over fifty years. Looking me in the eye, he says, “Love is the most powerful thing you can give and receive in this world.”
“If you are lucky enough to find it,” he adds, “grab it and hold on to it.” As we part ways, he reminds me once more: Sciacchetrà. Buona fortuna.
Add Aperitivo And A Sunset To Your Trek
Food, wine, and a sunset. You can enjoy all three during a trek in Cinque Terre. This wasn’t my original idea, so credit goes to my hostelmates and new friends.
Wanting to do something special on our last night, we set out for a sunset hike with wine and aperitivo. We take the train to Manarola just before sunset. On the main street, we stop at a local enoteca and COOP to buy wine, cheese, and crackers.
With wine in one hand—sans glasses (don’t forget to have them open it for you)—and snacks in the other, we hike to a viewpoint. There, surrounded by vineyards, we sit, talk, drink, and watch the sun melt into the sea. It’s a perfect farewell to our Cinque Terre adventure.
Five days ago, we were strangers. But spending every day together made us feel like old friends. Each sip of wine brings back memories of late-night flirtations and sleeping at train stations.
We recall the party we accidentally crashed—straight out of The Godfather—and laugh about the Italian men swinging us to accordion music. Tomorrow will be bittersweet as we go our separate ways. Everything happens for a reason, and our paths were meant to cross.
As the sun dips into the sea, we smile, grateful for the new friendships and unforgettable experiences. Whether you’re visiting Cinque Terre for a day or a week, trekking must be on your to-do list. And if you can, try trekking with a twist.
Have you ever hiked in the Cinque Terre?
About The Author
Jessica Yeager is a Jersey girl, pure and simple. But it’s her love of world travel, meeting new people, and exploring sun-drenched elsewheres that takes her beyond state lines. A teacher by day and storyteller by night, she enjoys sharing tales of her adventures that inspire and awaken the traveling spirit in others.
She loves this quote from Maya Angelou: “When you learn, teach. When you get, give.” Stop by her blog, Traveling Through Life, to read more from this Jersey Girl.
