Copenhagen is renowned for its farm-to-table dining scene and mix of traditional dishes. However, a new philosophy is taking over the city: The New Nordic Food Movement.
The mastermind behind this evolution is Claus Meyer, celebrated co-founder of Restaurant Noma, named Best Restaurant in the World in 2010, 2011, and 2012, and Second Best in 2013 by Restaurant magazine. Meyer, along with partners and head chefs Jesper Kirketerp and Rasmus Kliim, brings this vision to life at Restaurant Radio, where I had the pleasure of dining.
Restaurant Radio gets its name from its location next to the former offices of the Danish National Public Radio and Broadcasting. The restaurant embraces a locavore approach, which is central to the New Nordic Food Movement.
This light yet satisfying style of cooking emphasizes outdoor foraging, creative ingredient combinations, and using traditional elements in innovative ways. The focus is on biodynamic vegetables, fresh seafood, and ancient grains.
Meyer wanted to bring joy back to eating, returning to a time before industrial overproduction and quick, processed meals. Instead, the movement promotes delicious dishes made with locally sourced, nutrient-rich ingredients.
Meyer is so passionate about this philosophy that he drafted an official manifesto for the New Nordic Food Movement:
- To express the purity, freshness, simplicity, and ethics we associate with our region.
- To reflect the changing seasons in our meals.
- To base our cooking on ingredients that thrive in our climates, landscapes, and waters.
- To combine great taste with modern knowledge of health and well-being.
- To promote Nordic products and the variety of Nordic producers.
- To promote animal welfare and responsible production in our seas, on farmland, and in the wild.
- To explore new applications for traditional Nordic food products.
- To merge the best of Nordic cookery with global culinary influences.
- To balance local self-sufficiency with regional sharing of high-quality products.
- To collaborate with consumers, chefs, farmers, fisheries, food industries, researchers, and policymakers to benefit the Nordic community.
Given Restaurant Radio’s reputation as one of Copenhagen’s top restaurants, I expected a semi-pretentious atmosphere. Instead, I found a laid-back, rustic vibe.
With unpolished wood decor throughout—from tables to wine storage cabinets—the space exudes warmth. Nature-inspired artwork complements the restaurant’s philosophy, connecting diners to the land and food.
Since I was visiting in July, the menu highlighted fresh, in-season ingredients like cucumber, strawberries, gooseberries, spring cabbage, potatoes, flounder, fennel, peas, and kohlrabi.
At Restaurant Radio, you don’t order off a menu. Instead, you choose between a three-course or five-course meal, with or without wine pairing. I opted for the five-course menu with wine pairing, which was well worth the 800 Danish Krones (about $140 USD).
The meal began with pan-fried turnips served with an airy vinaigrette of mustard seeds and sunflower seeds. This was paired with crusty bread and house-whipped butter infused with caramelized onion.
The first course featured fresh Turbot white fish, covered in mussel foam and served with lightly fried cucumber, pickles, and elderflower. The dish showcased the restaurant’s farm-fresh vegetables and creative ingredient pairings.
When I asked Chef Jesper Kirketerp how they choose their ingredients, he explained, “We talk to the farmer to know when ingredients are ready, then discuss in the kitchen how to incorporate them into the menu.”
The next dish featured delicate scallops in a sauce of buttermilk, salt, dill oil, and crunchy toppings, garnished with fresh spring cabbage and dill.
Sommelier Frederik Amorøe explained the thoughtful wine pairings, saying, “We consider the flavors and season, then test selections with both restaurant and kitchen staff to ensure balance and appeal.”
By the third course, I was thoroughly enjoying the experience. The slow-cooked new potatoes with smoked cheese foam, peas, and potato chip bits were a revelation.
Each course felt like a work of art, blending flavors in unexpected ways. The wine pairings heightened every dish, creating a dining experience that was both refined and approachable.
Restaurant Radio embodies the New Nordic Food Movement, not only through its dishes but in its commitment to sustainability and creativity. My meal wasn’t just delicious—it was inspiring.
Whether you’re visiting for a 2-day Copenhagen itinerary or staying longer, make sure to reserve a table at this exceptional restaurant!
