By Eno Edet
There are two things that you can definitely find on the Lower East Side: high-rent prices and a plethora of restaurants from all over the world.
If you have a craving for it, chances are you can find it downtown. And that goes for anything, which is a whole other article.
But before the neighborhood became a hot spot for fine dining, one group of people at Katz’s Deli created the taste that would define the Lower East Side forever: Jewish immigrants.
Something Out Of Nothing
Living in an apartment the size of a shoe box can be annoying; but living there with other people, especially my family, sounds down-right insane. Don’t get me wrong, I love my family to death; but I can’t imagine sharing a shower with them that’s in the kitchen.
To say money was tight for the new immigrants is an understatement. In 1888 everything below 14th street was known as the slums, and people tried their best not to go down here. Developers were not fighting to buy up properties; they were literally running the other way.
It was a wonder how a family of eight survived there in the winter. Privacy and indoor plumbing were foreign concepts. All of these families were stacked on top of each other, squeezing pennies trying to make the ends meet. And like any other group of resilient people, they made the best of what they were given.
Out of this lack of money and “prestige” sprung an inventiveness that led to innovations in theater, art, music and food that changed America.
If you’ve ever wondered “Why is New York so popular?” these are just a few of the many reasons.
Katz’s Deli Is Born
No trip to the Lower East Side would be complete without a trip to Katz’s Deli. Yes, it’s well-known to tourists and likely listed in your guidebook; however, even those wanting to avoid touristy sites should note it’s beloved by locals.
And for good reason.
This 128-year old establishment is a direct reflection of the essence of the neighborhood. And in a neighborhood where businesses leave before your coffee turns cold, that’s saying something.
When the Jewish immigrants came to America, they brought their delicious recipes with them. Soon shops serving cured meat and hearty soups popped up all over the Lower East Side. The delicatessens that were opening up in the neighborhood weren’t just a place to purchase food. These establishments were a reminder of home and a way of showing loyalty to their heritage in a public setting. Also, it was a way for the people who were not Jewish to experience the culture.
The Neighborhood Katz’s Deli
The opening of these shops also provided these young entrepreneurs to make some money. The delicatessen that is the cornerstone of the nabe is Katz’s Deli. Willy Katz founded the deli on the Lower East Side in 1903. Upon his arrival Willy set-up shop, hired family members, and changed the way the America ate, one pastrami at a time.
During its early years, the deli was a party in itself. Located in the heart of the Yiddish theater district, actors, musicians, dancers would come hang out there after their performances. In a matter of decades, the Jewish culture changed the way American’s viewed art, theatre, music and food. The Lower East Side had invaded pop culture. And through it all, Katz’s Deli has been supplying the meals.
The fact that it is still family-owned is likely the reason the food is so good.
Keeping It In The Family
Katz’s Deli is not the only family-owned deli in the neighborhood with a rich tradition. In 1905, Polish immigrant Joel Russ carried mushrooms on his shoulders as appetizers until he had enough money to buy a pushcart. From that pushcart, he opened up a shop with his wife and three girls. Today, Russ and Daughters is still satisfying the taste buds of the Lower East Side.
Another neighborhood success story goes by the name of Yonah Shimmel. In 1890, Yonah arrived from Romania and began selling knishes on a pushcart, before he purchased his bakery. The establishment has become a staple of New York City. Everyone from politicians to Hollywood celebrities have stopped in Yonah Shimmel Knish Bakery, grabbed a bite to eat and had their picture placed on the wall.
For me personally, though, everything always goes back to Katz’s.
On the occasions I’ve eaten there, I found each time a memorable experience. The set-up is like a classic cafeteria. The pictures on the wall make you feel like you just walked into somebody’s living room. And the way you place your order; it’s as if you’re on The Wall Street trading floor. It’s brilliant.
What Else Can I Say?
The Lower East Side and Katz’s Delicatessen go hand in hand. Without one, the other could not exist. Every time I walk past there, I see people just taking pictures in front of the restaurant, sometimes not even going in. It never gets old: smelling that kosher corned beef as I hold that yellow ticket they give you when you walk in close to my heart. Real close (because if you lose it there’s a big fine!).
By now, Katz’s Deli is mentioned so many times in pop culture, and you can add this piece to the list. But give me some credit; I didn’t mention When Harry Met Sally once.
Pro tip:
After digging into your pastrami sandwich, burn off the calories and take in beautiful views with a walk over the Williamsburg Bridge nearby!
Have you eaten at Katz’s Deli? Please share your experiences in the comments below!
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