By Eno Edet
There are two things you can definitely find on the Lower East Side: high rent prices and a plethora of restaurants from all over the world.
If you have a craving for it, chances are you can find it downtown. And that goes for anything—which is a whole other article.
But before the neighborhood became a hot spot for fine dining, one group of people at Katz’s Deli created the taste that would define the Lower East Side forever: Jewish immigrants.
Something Out Of Nothing
Living in an apartment the size of a shoebox can be annoying; but living there with other people—especially my family—sounds downright insane. Don’t get me wrong, I love my family to death, but I can’t imagine sharing a shower with them that’s in the kitchen.
To say money was tight for the new immigrants is an understatement. In 1888, everything below 14th Street was known as the slums, and people tried their best not to go down there. Developers weren’t fighting to buy up properties—they were literally running the other way.
It was a wonder how a family of eight survived there in the winter. Privacy and indoor plumbing were foreign concepts. All of these families were stacked on top of each other, squeezing pennies and trying to make ends meet. And like any other group of resilient people, they made the best of what they were given.
Out of this lack of money and “prestige” sprung an inventiveness that led to innovations in theater, art, music, and food that changed America.
Katz’s Deli Is Born
No trip to the Lower East Side would be complete without a stop at Katz’s Deli. Yes, it’s well-known to tourists and probably listed in your guidebook; however, even those trying to avoid touristy sites should know it’s beloved by locals.
And for good reason.
This 128-year-old establishment is a direct reflection of the neighborhood’s essence. And in a place where businesses disappear before your coffee gets cold, that’s saying something.
When Jewish immigrants came to America, they brought their delicious recipes with them. Soon, shops serving cured meats and hearty soups popped up all over the Lower East Side.
These delicatessens weren’t just places to buy food—they were reminders of home and a way to show loyalty to their heritage in public. They also gave non-Jewish locals a way to experience the culture.
The Neighborhood Katz’s Deli
The opening of these shops also gave young entrepreneurs a chance to make money. The delicatessen that became the neighborhood’s cornerstone is Katz’s Deli.
Willy Katz founded the deli on the Lower East Side in 1903. He set up shop, hired family members, and changed how America ate—one pastrami at a time.
During its early years, the deli was a party in itself. Located in the heart of the Yiddish theater district, actors, musicians, and dancers would hang out there after performances.
In just a few decades, Jewish culture transformed how Americans viewed art, theater, music, and food. The Lower East Side had become a pop culture force. And through it all, Katz’s Deli kept the meals coming.
The fact that it’s still family-owned is probably why the food is so good.
Keeping It In The Family
Katz’s Deli isn’t the only family-owned spot in the area with a rich tradition. In 1905, Polish immigrant Joel Russ started out selling mushrooms as appetizers—carrying them on his shoulders—until he could afford a pushcart. From there, he opened a shop with his wife and three daughters. Today, Russ and Daughters is still satisfying Lower East Side taste buds.
Another neighborhood success story is Yonah Shimmel. In 1890, Yonah arrived from Romania and began selling knishes from a pushcart before purchasing his bakery.
The shop has since become a New York City institution. Everyone from politicians to Hollywood celebrities has stopped in for a bite—and had their photo placed on the wall.
For me, though, everything always goes back to Katz’s.
Every time I eat there, it’s memorable. The setup feels like a classic cafeteria. The photos on the wall make you feel like you’re in someone’s living room. And ordering? It’s like being on the floor of the New York Stock Exchange. It’s brilliant.
What Else Can I Say?
The Lower East Side and Katz’s Delicatessen go hand in hand. Without one, the other wouldn’t exist.
Every time I walk past it, I see people taking photos in front of the restaurant—sometimes without even going in. It never gets old: smelling that kosher corned beef and clutching the yellow ticket they give you when you walk in. (And yes, if you lose it, there’s a fine!)
By now, Katz’s Deli has been mentioned so many times in pop culture—and you can add this piece to the list. But hey, give me some credit: I didn’t mention When Harry Met Sally once.
Pro tip: After digging into your pastrami sandwich, burn off the calories and enjoy the views with a walk over the Williamsburg Bridge nearby!
